AMERICAN CHEESE

or Srore Cueese. This is the Cheddar-stvle cheese described in the first paragraph of this page. See also Cheddar in this list. AppEtitost, a spiced buttermilk-cheese—yellowish, soft, and viscous—put up in fancy shapes, imported from Denmark. Boxvost, a Swedish cheese, domestic and imported, similar to Gouda.: } ‘‘Brick,’? a domestic cheese made of whole milk, with a strong, sweet flavor. In charagter it stands midway between Emmenthaler and Limburger. It averages 10x 6x3 inches in size. Barts, a soft French cheese of Camembert style. Specimens differ both in size and quality—some are made of whole and some of partly skimmed milk.: ButterMiLK, made of the Lu: curd of buttermilk. It re- _., sembles skimmed Cottage cheese but is of finer grain. CactocavaLLo, a lightly smoked Italian cheese, of whole or partly skimmed milk, generally of round i shy beet or Indian-elub shape, and from three to five pounds in weight. Domes- ' ( tic caciocavallo is produced to a limited extent. Catirornia Jack CHEESE, a ‘‘stirred-curd’’ domestic cheese. used for the table when fresh, and for grating, s: ete., when hard. -:: CaMEMBERT, a soft, rich PT cheese which originated in: e: the former province of Nors mandy, France, the best stil] ‘Ns coming from its districts of:; Orne and Calvados. It is, or should be, from whole milk ' except when the milk contains more than 3.5 fat—in which case light skimming is practiced. It is generally sold here, wrapped in paper, in round wooden boxes about 414 inches in diameter and three-quarters of an inch Caciocavallo Pre Illustrating Service to an inch in depth. The average cheese has a rind—of molds and dried curd—-about one-eighth inch thick. The interior is yellowish, and varies from waxy to creamy, depending chiefly on the degree of ripene . Its characteristic consistence and flavor are not fully present until it is at least in part creamy. If drawn from a cool storeroom the cheese will naturally be stiff, but if it is a fresh specimen and not shrunken it will again become soft if held for a few hours in a warm room. Camembert is not one of the articles that the housewife can keep in stock, for it does not improve with age after ripening. More would be used if the ordinary consumer knew how to handle it..At dinner parties or in hotels it is easy to dispose of an entire cheese at one meal but the provident housewife in her everyday catering does not like to see three-quarters of it dry up or run away because the family is small or the cheese is only appreciated by the head of the house—of whichever sex. Nor is it always po ible or desirable to purchase the small, wrapped sections now put up for the delicate en trade. Tn cutting a whole Camembert for the first time, ent a section as shown in Figure 1 below, and then push the two sides of the cheese together as in Figure 2—the rind Ze | Cutting Camembert cheese will thus continue to protect it. At the second meal, ent through cro wise, and at the end of the meal push the parts together (Figure 3) so that the four quarter sections again make a circle, exercising a little care in pasting the side joints. This proce may be repeated as often as nece ary, hut it is to be hoped that the cheese will be sufficiently appreciated to be consnmed within four meals. Keep it meantime under a large inverted finger-bowl—you can find no better receptacle. The foregoing descriptions and suggestions apply with equal force to the similar, frequently identical, ‘‘Camembert type’’ cheese now made in various parts of France outside the original districts, and in other countries, including the United States. Some of it is excellent. As the Camembert Penicilliwm—reference to which is made in the prefatory paragraphs of this article on CHEESE—1s e ential to the manntacture of all ‘‘Camemberts,’’ and as it does not grow in this part of the world, it is nece ary to establish it in our factories by means of ‘‘special cultures’’—the originals of the cultures being molds taken, or ‘‘transplanted,’’ from imported Camembert. The cultures are added to the first batch of cheeses just before salting, and if the temperature, humidity, and other conditions are suitable—and are kept so—the molds will not only do their work im the cheeses to which they have been added hut their spores will so plentifully pervade the factory that, unaided and undirected, they will impregnate all future batches. @@PAGE Cueppar, one of the most important of all cheeses, named after the village of Cheddar, Hngland, the original place of production. Its manufacture has been briefly outlined on page 86. A characteristic full-size Cheddar averages seventy pounds in weight and is of pale color, neither sweet nor acid, of flaky texture and firm body, with an agreeable nutty flavor and aroma, but the title as now emploved apples to the e ential proce of manufacture rather than to any one type, ‘* Cheddar’’ being sold in many styles, shapes, and sizes. All Cheddar is made from sweet milk, and a distinctive feature of its making is the development of the maximum quantity of acid obtainable in the curd without injuring the texture of the cheese—but the milk used may be either whole, partly skimaned, or skimmed, and the cheeses may he white or colored yellow, and may be marketed mild and fresh or thoroughly ripened. In ripening, the common lactic acid bacteria are a isted by the development of a host of the Bulgaricus group. (See reference to these in Mermen ted milk in the article on Mix.) The cylindrical shape is the most popular for large cheeses, CHESITIRE, a whole-milk cheese resembling Cheddar but of stronger, sharper flavor, and, asa rule, highly colored. In England, Cheshire cheeses weigh up to as hieh as 150 and 200 pounds but in this country they range from twenty to seventy pounds, generally in eylindrical shape. Eyvom eight to ten months is required for ripening. At full ripening —when fifteen to eighteen months old—it is, if well made, frequently permeated by a bluish-green mold which imparts a flavor of decay highly esteemed by connoi eurs. Cotrave, or Smearcase (Schmier-kase), a sour, skim-milk cheese extensively made and consumed, sold both in bulk and wrapped in tin-foil. The curd is broken up and held at about 100° Fah. until sufficiently firm—this producing its typical ‘‘orainy’’ texture—the whey next being drained off and the curd placed under moderate pre ure. If to be held long, it is packed in tubs and placed in cold storage to prevent further ripening. For eating, it is generally moistened with milk or cream. In the household it should be kept in a cool place until wanted and should be consumed as fresh as po ible. ‘‘Clabber cheese’’ is a title often applied to Cottage cheese when it ages and softens. Cream CHerEsE. The two chief varieties of cream cheese of American manufacture are (1) sweet, heavy cream thickened with rennet or by the action of lactie acid bacteria, drained and salted; and (2) cream of low fat content, or rich or enriched milk, acidified by lactic acid bacteria and curdled with rennet, drained and salted, and then mixed or worked to a paste. ‘The Jatter style, molded into pieces Weighing two to four ounces, wrapped in parchment paper and tin-foil, and placed on the market fresh (without any curing), is produced here on a very large seale. If well made it is firm, yet gently vielding to a light pre ure of the fingers, its mild acidity and smooth richne very pleasing to the palate. It is at its best when eaten within two or three days of manufacture. It should always be kept in a cool place. This same style of cheese, with le milk-fat, generally carries the title of Neufchatel (which see). DanisH CHEESES, generally part-skim or skim of Cheddar type. D’Isiany, a domestic cheese of several styles, from very mild to a close resemblance to Limburger, Dunxvop, a rich, white, buttery cheese, resembling Cheddar, made in round forms of from thirty to sixty pounds. It was formerly the national cheese of Seotland but has been practically superseded in that country by Cheddar. Dutcu CHzEsE, a general name for Edam and Gouda cheeses (which see). Epam, a highly salted, red, round ‘‘cannonball’’ cheese, averaging three to four pounds in weight, made in Edam, Holland, and its vicinity, prineipally on farms. The best quality is of whole milk. The round shape is obtained by pre ure of the curd in iron or wood molds, and the color of the outside skin by the use of carmine or a weak solution of litmus and Berlin red. For some markets the skin is colored yellow. The shells of Edam (and Pineapple) cheese are useful for serving spaghetti or macaroni. Heat the shell in a moderate oven and pour in the (cooked) spaghetti. Tf the spaghetti is to be browned, set the filled shell in the oven again—this will, however, destroy the shell after three or four times. Some Edam cheese is now exported in tins instead of in the ball form which has done so much to make it famous. EMMENTHALER (commonly called ‘‘Swi cheese,’’ or ‘‘Schweizer’’), a whole-milk cheese of mild, rather sweet, flavor and distinctive odor, and generally distinguished by holes, or ‘‘eyes,’’ of various sizes and number. It was originally made in immenthal, Switzerland, and Switzerland is still a large exporter despite the quantity of similar cheese now manufactured in nearly every country. The French produet is known, both in France and by export, as Gruyére—which takes its title from the Swi village of that name. That made here is—or should be—known as ‘‘ Domestic Swi .’’ The cheeses are often very large—from 60 to 220 pounds each—sometimes in ‘blocks about twenty-eight inches or so long and eight inches square, hut usually circular, up to four feet in diameter and six inches in thickne . A genuine Hmmenthaler of the first quality is never le than four months old when exported. If uncut, it will (under favorable conditions) keep for several years. It should be nutty in taste, and rather dry, but tender. The ‘‘holes,’’ or ‘‘eves,’’ though generally characteristic, are not nece ary to its quality, for many good cheeses are ‘*blind,’’ as dealers deseribe them. Of this character are the very small Gruyére cheeses packed in Camembert style. EwcuisHh Dairy Type, prepared in about the same way as Cheddar hut cooked for a longer time. It is made extensively here, principally for culinary purposes after it has hardened with age. FLorEpEost, a Norwegian cheese similar to Gjedeost, but made of cow’s milk and le rich. GAMME LosT, a Norwegian cheese of skimmed sour milk, golden brown in the best quality, and of strong flavor. A special reference to it will be found on page 82. Gervals, a French cream cheese made from a mixture of whole milk and cream. GsEDEOsT, a sweet, rich, strong-flavored, brown, Norwegian, goat’s milk cheese, moist but firm enongh to slice well. Gorconzona, a rich, pungent, whole milk cheese, produced in the mountain villages of northern Italy. It is mottled like Roque fort, but is of cow’s milk, and cheaper. When ripe, it is distinguished by a blue-green mold and resembles a rich, well-ripened Stilton. The clayey outside surface of the whole cheese is a mixture of gypsum, tallow, ete., and is designed to aid in preserving it. Well-made Gorgon zol a can be kept in good condition for a year or longer. Govpa, a Holland cheese made from whole or partly skimmed milk, and colored with saffron. It is pre ed in shallow round molds and weighs up to twenty pounds. The larger cheeses are marketed in bladders or other coverings of animal ti ue; the smaller may be simply crusted and colored hke Edam. Goya, a hard grating-cheese from Argentine, similar to Romano but made of cow’s milk and put up in smaller sizes. ‘‘Gratep Cueesk,’’ any hard cheese grated for use with spaghetti or other appropriate dishes. See especially Parmesan. 5 Gruyere, if of whole milk, is e entially a Freneh Eninenthaler (which see). Hann Cuvese (so called because originally molded by hand), a small, ripened, sour-milk cheese of, commonly, a mixture of skimmed milk and buttermilk. with, in some styles, the addition of caraway-seeds or various herbs. It has a sharp strong odor and flavor. a Kosuer Govpa, made for Jewish trade and bearing a special stamp for identification. Jt resembles Gouda, but has no bladder covering and averages smaller—about 814 inches in diameter and three inches thick, and weighing four to ten pounds. Leypex, a green-mottled domestie cheese, after a style original to Leyden, Holland, of part-skim milk, spiced with cloves or caraway-seeds. The exterior is red. LigDERKRANZ, a small, soft, American cheese of excellent type, made from a Camembert-style curd, and somewhat like Camembert but richer in flavor. It is put up in rectangular blocks of about four ounces in weight. I T I ' | Limpurcer, a cheese which owes its name to its origin in the Belgian province of, Limburg but whose manufacture long ago extended beyond the Belgian border into Germany and Austria, and later cro ed the ocean into the United States, The domestic product has proved fully equal to the Huropean, and you sands of tons are made here every season—principally in New York and Wisconsin. The best qualities are of whole-nilk; others are of partly skimmed or skimmed. Great care is taken to use pure milk, free from taint, and cleanline is requisite in every stage of the making. The curd is made from the sweet milk—there is no lactic-acid step— and is quickly eut into cubes the size of dice, or smaller—careful handling being nece ary to avoid breaking the butter globules upon which the richne of the cheese depends. Jt is next stirred, and most of the whey drawn off; then, without being salted, it is dipped out in perforated wooden boxes or molds, about five inches square, and stood to drain, with frequent turning but without the application of any pre ure. In a few hours the packages are carried into the salting room and placed edgeways on shelves, like bricks set to dry. Every day thereafter for four or more davs they are rolled in salt and replaced when they have absorbed enough. Thev go next to the curing cellar, to be turned almost every day, and rubbed over and washed with brine. Here the whitish, harsh, hard cheese becomes a ripe Limburger— a rich, buttery product with a vellowish or reddish-brown jacket and, incidentally, the famous *‘Limburger’’ odor—which never forsakes it and sticks closer than a brother to all who touch or eat it. Itis now packed in paper and tin-foil, and is ready for market—in consistence, contents, and nourishment as rich a cheese as almost any that you can name, but to the uninitiated a malicious and premeditated outrage upon the organ of smell! | 4 Lopictano. See Parmesan. Mié rer, a whole-milk West-German cheese, somewhat resembling ‘‘store cheese’’ but lighter in color and softer, and generally flavored with caraway or aniseed. Domestic Miinster-type is produced here in considerable quantities to meet local demands. Mysostr, a Scand in avian and Danish cheese made entirely or chiefly of evaporated whey. It is light brown, mild-flavored, and sweet. Its chief component is milk-sugar, which may run from 30 to nearly 60%. In texture it may range from buttery to brittle. A small amount is manufactured here. 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