HAT

(Germ, hut.) What is usually called a heaver hat is made of a variety of furs, chiefly those of the hare and rabbit, mingled with wool, and in the best hats a proportion of beaver's fur; but the latter is altogether omitted in common sHiffhats. The furs are mixed; the long hair is picked out; and they are then placed on a hurdle, whicli is shaken and made to vibrate by being struck with a bow-string; in this way the dust is shaken out, and the fibres are to a certain extent interwoven. {See Felt.) A quantity of this ma of fur sufficient for one hat is called a bat or capade (see Vre's Dictionary, art. " Hat making"): it is pre ed, kneaded, and at length moulded so as to form a kind of conical cap, the irregularities or small fibres of the different furs entangling with each other so as to keep the whole adherent. The cap is then dipped into warm water acidulated by sulphuric acid, and wrought by the hands for several hours, by which it is thickened or fulled; the knots are picked out of it, fresh felt here and there added, and the beaver ultimately apl)lied; the hat is then shaped, water-proofed by a lac varnish, tied upon a block, dyed, stiffened by the application of a solution of glue, steamed, brushed, and ironed: the brim is then trimmed, and it is ready for lining and binding. Silk hats have a foundation of woollen felt, similar to those which are covered by beaver, upon which a silk plush is afterwards applied. Various proce es have lately been suggested, and some of them carried into effect, for the purpose of improving this manufacture. Several of these are described and figured in lire's Dictionary, but their extension and introduction have hitherto been succe fully opposed by the journeymen hatters, " among whom," says Dr.Ure, " there exists an organized combination, by -which the masters throughout the kingdom are held in a state of complete servitude." " The public of a free country," he adds, " ought to counteract this disgraceful state of things by renouncing the wear of stuff hats, a branch of the busine entirely under the control of this despotic union, and betake themselves to the use of silk hats, which froni recent improvements in theil" fabric and dyeing are not a whit inferior to the beaver hats in comfort, appearance, or durability, while they may be had of the best quality for one fourth part of their price." [s. 556]