Diamonds
A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines · 1840 · p. 400
take precedence of every gem for the purposes of dre and decoration; and hence the price attached to those of a pure water, increases in so rapid a proportion, that beyond a certain term, there is no rule of commercial valuation. The largest diamond that is known seems to be that of the Rajah of Mattan, in the East Indies. It is of the purest water, and weighs 367 carats, or at the rate of 4 grains to a carat, upwards of 3 ounces troy. It is shaped like an egg, with an indented hollow near the smaller end; it was discovered at Landak about 100 years ago; and though the po e ion of it has cost several wars, it has remained in the Mattan family for 90 years. A governor of Batavia, after ascertaining the qualities of the gem, wished to be the purchaser, and offered 150,000 dollars for it, besides two war brigs with their guns and ammunition, together with a certain number of great guns, and a quantity of powder and shot. But this diamond po e ed such celebrity in India, and was regarded as a talisman involving the fortunes of the Rajah and his family, that he refused to part with it at any price. The diamond po e ed in the time of the traveller Tavernier, by the emperor of Mogul, a kingdom now no more, weighed 279 carats, and was reckoned worth upwards of 400,000 l. sterling. It was said to have lost the half of its original weight in the cutting. After these prodigious gems, the next are:—1. That of the emperor of Ru ia, bought by the late empre Catherine, which weighs 193 carats. It is said to be of the size of a pigeon’s egg, and to have been bought for 90,000 l. , besides an annuity to the Greek merchant of 4000 l. It is reported that the above diamond formed one of the eyes of the famous statue of She ring an, in the temple of Brama, and that a French grenadier, who had deserted into the Malabar service, found the means of robbing the pagoda of this precious gem; and escaped with it to Madras, where he disposed of it to a ship captain for 2,000 l. , who resold it to a Jew for 12,000 l. From him it was transferred for a large sum to the Greek merchant. 2. That of the emperor of Austria, which weighs 139 carats, and has a slightly yellowish hue. It has, however, been valued at 100,000 l. 3. That of the king of France, called the Regent or Pitt diamond, remarkable for its form and its perfect limpidity. Although it weighs only 136 carats, its fine qualities have caused it to be valued at 160,000 l. though it cost only 100,000 l. The largest diamond furnished by Brazil, now in po e ion of the crown of Portugal, weighs, according to the highest estimates, 120 carats. It was found in the streamlet of Abaïte, in a clay-slate district. The diamonds po e ed of no extraordinary magnitude, but of a good form and a pure water, may be valued by a certain standard rule. In a brilliant, or rose-diamond of regular proportions, so much is cut away that the weight of the polished gem does not exceed one half the weight of the diamond in the rough state; whence the value of a cut diamond is esteemed equal to that of a similar rough diamond of double weight, exclusive of the cost of workmanship. The weight and value of diamonds is reckoned by carats of 4 grains each; and the comparative value of two diamonds of equal quality but different weights, is as the squares of these weights respectively. The average price of rough diamonds that are worth working, is about 2 l. for one of a single carat; but as a polished diamond of one carat must have taken one of 2 carats, its price in the rough state is double the square of 2 l. , or 8 l. Therefore, to estimate the value of a wrought diamond, ascertain its weight in carats, double that weight, and multiply the square of this product by 2 l. | Hence, a wrought diamond of | 1 | carat is worth | £ 8 | | | 2 | — | 32 | | 3 | — | 72 | | 4 | — | 128 | | 5 | — | 200 | | 6 | — | 288 | | 7 | — | 392 | | 8 | — | 512 | | 9 | — | 612 | | 10 | — | 800 | | 20 | — | 3200 |, | beyond which weight the prices can no longer rise in this geometrical progre ion, from the small number of purchasers of such expensive toys. A very trifling spot or flaw of any kind, lowers exceedingly the commercial value of a diamond. Diamonds are used not only as decorative gems, but for more useful purposes, as for cutting gla by the glazier, and all kinds of hard stones by the lapidary. On the structure of the glazier’s diamond, we po e some very interesting observations and reflections by Dr. Wollaston. He remarks, that the hardest substances brought to a sharp point scratch gla , indeed, but do not cut it, and that diamond alone po e ed that property; which he ascribes to the peculiarity of its crystallization in rounded faces, and curvilinear edges. For gla -cutting, those rough diamonds are always selected which are sharply crystallized, hence called diamond sparks; but cut diamonds are never used. The inclination to be given to a set diamond in cutting gla is comprised within very narrow limits; and it ought, moreover, to be moved in the direction of one of its angles. The curvilinear edge adjoining the curved faces, entering as a wedge into the furrow opened up by itself, thus tends to separate the parts of the gla ; and in order that the crack which causes the separation of the vitreous particles may take place, the diamond must be held almost perpendicular to the surface of the gla . The Doctor proved this theory by an experiment. If, by suitable cutting with the wheel, we make the edges of a spinel ruby, or corundum-telesie (sapphire) curvilinear, and the adjacent faces curved, these stones will cut gla as well as a glazier’s diamond, but being le hard than it, they will not preserve this property so long. He found that upon giving the surface of even a fragment of flint the same shape as that of the cutting diamond, it acquired the same property; but, from its relative softne , was of little duration. The depth to which the fi ure caused by the glazier’s diamond penetrates, does not seem to exceed the two-hundredth of an inch. I shall here introduce Mr. Milburn’s valuable observations on the choice of rough diamonds, as published in his work on Oriental Commerce . The colour should be perfectly crystalline, resembling a drop of clear spring water, in the middle of which you will perceive a strong light, playing with a great deal of spirit. If the coat be smooth and bright, with a little tincture of green in it, it is not the worse, and seldom proves bad, but if there is a mixture of yellow with green, then beware of it; it is a soft greasy stone, and will prove bad. If the stone has a rough coat, so that you can hardly see through it, and the coat be white and look as if it were rough by art, and clear of flaws or veins, and no blemish cast in the body of the stone, (which may be discovered by holding it against the light) the stone will prove good. It often happens that a stone will appear of a reddish hue on the outward coat, not unlike the colour of rusty iron, yet by looking through it against the light, you may observe the heart of the stone to be white (and if there be any black spots, or flaws, or veins in it, they may be discovered by a true eye, although the coat of the stone be the same), and such stones are generally good and clear. If a diamond appears of a greenish bright coat, resembling a piece of green gla , inclining to black, it generally proves hard, and seldom bad; such stones have been known to have been of the first water, and seldom worse than the second; but if any tincture of yellow seems to be mixed with it, you may depend on its being a very bad stone. All stones of a milky cast, whether the coat be bright or dull, if ever so little inclining to a bluish cast, are naturally soft, and in danger of being flawed in the cutting; and though they should have the good fortune to escape, yet they will prove dead and milky, and turn to no account. All diamonds of cinnamon colour are dubious; but if of a bright coat mixed with a little green, then they are certainly bad, and are accounted among the worst of colours. You will meet with a great many diamonds of a rough cinnamon-coloured coat, opaque; this sort is generally very hard, and, when cut, contain a great deal of life and spirit; but the colour is very uncertain; it is sometimes white, sometimes brown, and sometimes of a fine yellow. Rough diamonds are frequently beamy , that is look fair to the eye, yet are so full of veins to the centre, that no art or labour can polish them. A good diamond should never contain small spots of a white or gray colour of a nebulous form; it should be free from small reddish and brownish grains, that sometimes occur on their surface, or in their interior. A good diamond should split readily in the direction of the cleavage; it sometimes happens, however, that the folia are curved, as is the case in twin crystals. When this happens, the stone does not readily cut and polish, and is therefore of inferior value. In the cut and polished gem, the thickne must always bear a certain proportion to the breadth. It must not be too thin nor thick; for, when too thin, it loses much of its fire, and appears not unlike gla . The term carat is said to be derived from the name of a bean, the produce of a species of erythina , a native of the district of Shan gall as, in Africa; a famous mart of gold-dust. The tree is called kuara , a word signifying sun in the language of the country; because it bears flowers and fruit of a flame colour. As the dry seeds of this pod are always of nearly uniform weight, the savages have used them from time immemorial to weigh gold. The beans were transported into India, at an ancient period, and have been long employed there for weighing diamonds. The carat of the civilized world is, in fact, an imaginary weight, consisting of 4 nominal grains, a little lighter than 4 grains troy ( poids de marc ); it requires 74 carat grains and 1 ⁄ 16 to equipoise 72 of the other. In valuing a cut diamond, we must reckon that one half of its weight has been lost in the lapidary’s hands; whence its weight in this state should be doubled before we calculate its price by the general rule for estimating diamonds. The French multiply by 48 the square of this weight, and they call the product in francs the value of the diamond. Thus, for example, a cut diamond of 10 carats would be worth (10 × 2) 2 × 48 = 19,200 francs, or 768 l. , allowing only 25 francs to the pound sterling. The diamond mines of Brazil have brought to its government, from the year 173~ till 1814, 3,023,000 carats; being at the average rate annually of 36,000 carats, or a little more than 16 libs., weight. They have not been so productive in the later years of that period; for, according to Mr. Mawe, between 1801 and 1806, only 115,675 carats were obtained, being 19,279 a year. The actual expenses incurred by the government, during this interval, was 4,419,700 francs; and, deducting the production in gold from the washings of the diamond gravel, or cascalho , it is found that the rough diamonds cost in exploration, per carat, 38 francs 20 c., or nearly 31 s. British money. The contraband is supposed to amount to one third of the above legitimate trade. Brazil is almost the only country where diamonds are mined at the present day; it sends annually to Europe from 25 to 30 you sand carats, or from 10 to 16 1 ⁄ 2 libs.
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