Dyeing on cotton and linen
A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines · 1840 · p. 796
—The most brilliant and fastest madder red is the Turkey or Adrianople. The common madder reds are given in the following way:—The yarn or cloth is boiled in a weak alkaline bath, washed, dried and galled, by steeping the cotton in a decoction of bruised galls or of sumach. After drying, it is twice alumed; for which purpose, for every 4 parts of the goods, one part of alum is taken, mixed with 1-16th of its weight of chalk. The goods are dipped into a warm solution of the alum, wrung out, dried, and alumed afresh, with half the quantity. The acetate of alumina mordant, described above, answers much better than common alum for cotton. After the goods are dried and rinsed, they are pa ed through the dye bath, which is formed of 3 ⁄ 4 lb. of good madder for every pound of cotton; and it is raised to the boiling point by degrees, in the space of 50 or 60 minutes. Whenever the ebullition has continued a few minutes, the goods must be removed, washed slightly, and dyed a second time in the same way, with as much madder. They are then washed and pa ed through a warm soap bath, which removes the dun colouring matter. Hölterhoff prescribes for ordinary madder red the following proportions:—20 pounds of cotton yarn; 14 pounds of Dutch madder; 3 pounds of nut-galls; 5 pounds of alum; to which 1 ⁄ 2 lb. of acetate of lead has been first added, and then a quarter of a pound of chalk. In the calico-print works the madder goods are pa ed through a bran bath first, immediately after dyeing; next, after several days exposure to the air, when the dun dye has become oxidized, and is more easily removed. An addition of chalk, on the principles explained above, is sometimes useful in the madder bath. If bran be added to the madder bath, the colour becomes much lighter, and of an agreeable shade. Sometimes bran-water is added to the madder bath, instead of bran.
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