SAUSAGES

products of varied styles which consist e entially of chopped meat, generally beef or pork, or both, cured, spiced, and stuffed-into beef or sheep or hog casings. They may be marketed either raw or cooked; and fresh, or dried and smoked, or simply air-dried. Commercially, in the large packing-houses, they are made chiefly of the trimmings of hams, ete., but choice grades of special manufacture may he of prime whole euts. Cheap kinds consist largely of head-meat, and usually contain a ‘‘binder’’ of potato-flour, rice, bread or cracker-meal, or other similar articles. Curing signifies commonly the addition of sugar, salt, and a little saltpeter to the coarsely chopped meat and then allowing it to rest for a few days. It is generally followed by a second finer chopping. The saltpeter is used to retain or enhance the red color of the fresh meat. Smoking is identical in proce with that for Ham (which see) except that the time required is shorter. The casings are usually the (thoroughly cleaned) intestines of steers, sheep, and hogs. If the casings are to he eaten (as commonly with frankfurters), sheep’s shonld be employed, as they are much more tender than those of beef or pork. There are two main divisions of sausages—(1) Dry, or ‘‘summer’’ (as most cervelats and salamis, and sausages such as chorizos), which will keep for a long time without refrigeration if held in a eool, dry, dark place; and (2) Fresh (as bolognas, frankfurters, head-cheese, and fresh pork sausages), which should he held in the refrigerator until required for consumption. The latter cla should be sold and consumed as fresh as po ible. A number (as capacola, coppa, Goethaer cervelat, mortadella, peperoni, and several salamis) are marketed in both stvles in order to suit the publie’s varied tastes. Some sausages are eaten as purchased, without additional cooking —often nearly raw; others are cooked for varying periods before serving. It is generally better to ery on the side of over than under cooking, as there is always the danger of trichine in pork that has not been thoroughly permeated by strong heat (see article on Trichtn«) unle the salting has been exceptionally heavy. The output of large establishments is closely safeguarded by federal, state, and city regulations and inspection, and freezing for a considerable period at a very low temperature sterilizes any of their products which are not thoroughly cooked, but this protection is not universally applied and retailers are wise to handle only sausages made by concerns with thoroughly established reputations for cleanline and wholesomene of preparation. The following list of the most popular kinds names the principal ingredients of their general manufacture in high-cla establishments. Customs and formulas vary widely, however. Those not referred to in the preceding pages as ‘‘dry’’ are com monly of the ‘*fresh’? cla . The color-page facing 462 shows (in reduced size) hlood-sausage, bologna, cervelat, frankfurters, mortadella, and salami. Broop Savsace, or BLoop Werst, principally fat pork cut into small dice, together with some finely chopped lean pork, beef or log blood, and spices, stuffed into beef middle casings, with three or four pieces of hog tongue added to each sausage, and boiled. The dark color is due to the blood content. BoLocxra Savsace, named from the town of Bologna, Italy. Practically all of our supply is of domestic make. The (comparatively) small importation is from both Italy and Germany. Beef bologna usually consists of beef, veal, and pork trimmings chopped fine, spiced, stuffed into beef wide casings), cooked, and smoked. Haim bologua of high grade contains large cubes of lean pork-shoulder or shoulder butt. Bockwuersr, a title applied to small sausages formerly served with Bock Beer. CapacoLa, an Italian sausage, chiefly of pork butts, favored with sweet Hungarian peppers, cooked and air-dried. CyrveLat, similar to Salami in preparation, but commonly chopped finer. It is put up in hog and beef casings and smoked. The numerous special kinds in elude CGocthaer, generally of pork only, very lean, fine-chopped, and drv; Brunschiceiger, fat. coarse, and dry; Thu ringer, often specifically a fresh cervelat; Holstein, coarse chopped, in horse-shoe shape; Farmer, coarse-chopped, similar to Holstein but in straight lengths; Goteborg, a Swedisa make, rather coarse-chopped, salty, and heavily smoked; and Land jaeger, Swi , small and heavily smoked. (Cuorizos, a Spanish sausage, air-dried, a good deal like a frankfurter but highly spiced and hot to the palate. Coppa, similar to capacola but much hotter, chilies or cayenne pepper taking the place of the sweet peppers.. Pranxkrort Sausages, or “‘frankfurters,’? a mixture (if of fine quality) of ahout three-quarters Jean beef and one-quarter lean pork-shoulder, spiced, stuffed imto sheep or narrow hog casings and wel] smoked. They should not be kept long, as they readily become dry and unpalatable or tend to sour, A hot frankfurter should break open when bent and show plenty of juice. Garuic, or Kxropiaven, Savsacr, made in the same way as frankfurters, with more garlic used and generally put up in shorter, thicker style. Goosk Liver SausaGe, finely mineed, parboiled calf’s liver and pork, roasted and spiced, containing pieces of goose liver about one inch square, filled into very wide hog casings. Tf made of goose livers exclusively, the price is much higher, but the fresh product then compares favorably with the imported paté de foie gras. Heap-cHerse. Salt-eured hog’s head and rinds (the latter for their jellving property) ent into dice or (some of it) into long, thin strips, flavored and spiced, stuffed Into hogs’ stomachs or canvas bags and cooked, It is sometimes finished by smoking. Tongue head-cheese has tongue added—either whole or cut. Lacu cHINKEN, two trimmed, bonele pork-loins, nuld sweet-cured, faced and pushed into large beef casings, sixteen inches or so in length, pre ed, tied with strings, dried, and lightly smoked. Liver Savsace, or Prppine, hog livers and pork trimmings (with sometimes other meats added) variously flavored and seasoned — with onions, pistachio-nuts, ete.—and put up in ring and straight casings of several sizes. @@PAGE Lyons Sausage (Sauci on de Lyon), exclusively of pork—four parts of extremely finely chopped lean and one or two parts of fat in small dice, with spices and garlic, stuffed into wide hog casings of about eighteen inches in length, and air-dried. Merr Sacsace, chopped fat pork, spiced, cooked, filled into beef casings and smoked. It is popular spread on bread, hence its colloquial title of ‘‘smierwurst.’’ It is generally made from the remnants after preparing cervelat or salami. The finer varieties bear special names, as Brunswick or Thu ring i an Mett. Morra pern a, pork and beef chopped extra fine, with cubes of pork fat added, spiced, stuffed into ealf or beef bladders, cooked, and smoked or baked. Those of very careful Italian manufacture are smoked by a fire of beech or oak shavings mixed with juniper brush. Prprront, a very hot and highly spiced, air-dried Italian beef and pork sausage. Potts Sausace (Kolba y), similar to frankfurters in preparation but chopped coarser, highly flavored with garlic and spices, and filled into hog casings, eight to twelve inches in length and one-half to three-quarters of an inch in diameter. Pork Sausace, or Brarwurst, finely chopped, lean, fresh pork trimmings, with spices such as nutmég, ginger, cloves, and mace, and herbs as sage. For fancy trade, they are generally stuffed into sheep casines in very small links; for regular trade, small hog casings are employed. The mixture is also retailed in muslin bags as ‘“sausage meat.’’ Savami. There are many Salamis—roughly divisible into Italian (Ale andri, Alpino, Arles, Genoa, Milan, Sicilian, Southern-Italian, ete.), Hungarian, and German. The Italian consist commonly of about two-thirds lean pork, coarse-chopped, and one-third lean beef, fine-chopped, moistened with red wine (or grape juice), flavored with garlic and various spices, stuffed into beef casings, and air-dried. Hung in a suitable place, they will keep for years, Arles salami is especially coarse and Milan is particularly fine chopped. German and Hungarian Salamis are le highly flavored and are smoked in place of air-drying. SUMMER Sav cr. See reference in the prefatory paragraphs of this article. The title is also used specifically for a sansage of cervelat or salami type. Toneve Savsace, largely of blood, with tongue added; usually stuffed in a hog’s stomach. Vienna Savsaces, or Wirnerwversts, like frankfurters, but with the ends cut off and very small. SAUTE (‘‘to ed’’). See subhead in the general article on Cooxgry.