GLOVE MANUFACTURE

In February, 1822, Mr. James Winter of Stoke-under-Hambdon, in the county of Somerset, obtained a patent for an improvement upon a former patent machine of his for sewing and pointing leather gloves. Fig. 518. represents a pedestal, upon which the instrument called the jaws is to be placed. Fig. 519. shows the jaws, which instead of opening and closing by a circular movement upon a joint, as described in the former specification, are now made to open and shut by a parallel horizontal movement, effected by a slide and screw; a a is the fixed jaw, made of one piece, on the under side of which is a tenon, to be inserted into the top of the pedestal. By means of this tenon the jaws may be readily removed, and another similar pair of jaws placed in their stead, which affords the advantage of expediting the operation by enabling one person to prepare the work whilst another is sewing; b b is the movable jaw, made of one piece. The two jaws being placed together in the manner shown at fig. 519. , the movable jaw traverses backwards and forwards upon two guide-bars, c , which are made to pa through holes exactly fitted to them, in the lower parts of the jaws. At the upper parts of the jaws are, what are called the indexes, d d , which are pre ed tightly together by a spring, shown at fig. 520. , and intended to be introduced between the perpendicular ribs of the jaws at e . At f , is a thumb-screw, pa ing through the ribs for the purpose of tightening the jaws, and holding the leather fast between the indexes while being sewn; this screw, however, will seldom, if ever, be nece ary if the spring is sufficiently strong; g is an eye or ring fixed to the movable jaw, through which the end of a lever h , in fig. 518. , pa es; this lever is connected by a spring to a treadle i , at the base of the pedestal, and by the pre ure of the right foot upon this treadle, the movable jaw is withdrawn; so that the person employed in sewing may shift the leather, and place another part of the glove between the jaws. The pieces called indexes, are connected to the upper part of the jaws, by screws pa ing through elongated holes which render them capable of adjustment. IMG:4147767755307473660_illo0598b.png:Glove-making tools The patentee states, that in addition to the index described in his former patent, which is applicable to what is called round-seam sewing only, and which permits the leather to expand but in one direction, when the needle is pa ed through it, namely, upwards; he now makes two indexes of different construction, one of which he calls the receding index, and the other the longitudinally grooved index. Fig. 521. represents an end view, and fig. 522. a top view of the receding index, which is particularly adapted for what are called “drawn sewing, and prick-seam sewing;” this index, instead of biting to the top, is so rounded off in the inside from the bottom of the cro grooves, as to permit the needles, by being pa ed backwards and forwards, to carry the silk thread on each side of the leather without pa ing over it. Fig. 523. represents an end view of the longitudinally grooved index, partly open, to show the section of the grooves more distinctly; and fig. 524. represents an inside view of one side of the same index, in which the longitudinal groove is shown pa ing from k to l . This index is more particularly adapted to round-seam sewing, and permits the leather to expand in every direction when the needle is pa ed through it, by which the leather is le strained, and the sewing consequently rendered much stronger. It is obvious that the parallel horizontal movement may be effected by other mechanical means besides those adopted here, and the chief novelty claimed with respect to that movement, is its application to the purpose of carrying the index used in sewing and pointing leather gloves. Importation of leather gloves for home consumption; and amount of duty in | 1836. | 1837. | 1836. | 1837. | | 1,461,769 | 1,221,350 | £ 27,558 | £ 22,923 | IMG:4147767755307473660_illo0599.png:Glove-sewing apparatus