Wool

A Dictionary of Men's Wear · 1908 · p. 13
—the fleece of sheep; used for textil and similar purposes. In grading the shorn staple the most common practise is to cla ify it into three grand divisions, to wit: (1) carding or clothing w. (also called “short staple” [2 to 4 inches long]), such as merino, having special felting properties; (2) combing w. (also called “long staple” [4 to 10 inches long]), in which length of staple is first consideration and felting properties are not desired, being appropriate for hardspun worsted yarns; (3) miscellaneous, a grouping of long, strong, coarse w. suitable for blankets, carpets (sometimes known by these and other names), coarse clothing, etc. These, again, are subdivided into the following grades: XX Combing, or the very finest, 6 inches and above in length. No. 1 Combing, or 2d. finest, 6 inches and above in length. No. 2 Combing, or 3d. finest, 6 inches and above in length. Braid Combing, or coarse hair, 6 inches and above in length. Fine No. 1, medium stapled, 5 to 6 inches in length. Medium or No. 2, 5 to 6 inches in length. Carding No. 1 and Kid, le than 5 inches in length. Short staple wools are also known as picklock (finest), prime, choice, super, head, seconds, abb and breech or livery; long staple or worsted wools are also cla ed as fine, blue, neat, brown, breach, downright, seconds, abb. Wools are further graded according to the parts of the body from which sheared, the physical condition of the fleece (as common hair, dead, kemp, cro breed, ½ blood, ¼ blood, etc.), the country where produced (as Australian, territory, Oregon, Ohio), etc. The manufacturer in turn makes from fifteen to twenty or more sorts, according to the kind of yarn and goods he produces, and each mill has its own standard and nomenclature. Short staple wools are the finest and long staple the coarsest. The value of combing hair increases with every inch of length, other conditions being equal. The scope of this work does not permit an extended treat is (which the subject merits)—so you had better consult some authoritativ book on wools and weaving, or some good encyclopedia.
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