WINE

is not always found in the grocer’s stock, but it is in many localities a profitable branch of the trade when it is kept in its proper place. If sold only in bottles or by the quantity, with no sampling, it attracts a good cla of customers who use, but do not abuse, the product of the vine and who, for that very reason, prefer to pur Selling liquor over the bar should not be mixed with retailing groceries, although in some sections it is very generally done. In the end, it limits the succe of the store instead of aiding it. The best custom is driven away, and that which remains too often ends by owing both the bar and the store, the store having trusted a little more liberally on account of the bar, and the bar unable to refuse the credit asked lest the whole bill should be lost—as it frequently is. The term “Wine” is usually applied only to the fermented juice of the grape, but other fruits, as currants, raspberries, blackberries, gooseberries, elderberries, etc., are employed to make products distinguished generally by the name of the fruit or known as Domestic, or Home-made, wines. The grapes are, for most types of wine, picked when just fully ripe, the juice being extracted by crushing and pre ing, and stored in open vats for the first or active fermentation. The product is then drawn off the lees and placed in casks for the second or slow fermentation, during which the “character” of the wine develops. The subsequent proce es differ according to the style and character of the wine desired (see special articles on CHAMPAGNE, SHERRY, etc.). During development, many wines undergo several “fin ings” (see CLARIFICATION). The lees, or Argol, deposited is largely utilized in the form of CREAM or Tartar (which see). The quantity of alcohol in the wines of popular usage generally varies within the following percentages: Alcohol per cent Alcohol per cent Burgundy (red)............. 8-15 Port: ue neers ace een 18-24 Champagne................... 12-14 Rhine: Wine sonia rit a nine e 8-14 CIAREL restées ai na 8-15 Sauternes Herrn ann wes 8-15 MAGES, ame das dent bo ee 18-20 SII ace Re VII va 15-24 Moselle sn 2552 8-10 TORaY. ae 9-15 - Wines, however, are not consumed for their alcohol alone. They contain other ingredients, derived from the grape juice, which are more important, both commercially and from the standpoint of the epicure. Their value depends largely on their age, flavor and bouquet. The matter of age varies with different cla es—some reach their prime at four or five years; others will continue to improve after the lapse of several decades. The flavor is attributable to the cenanthic ether formed during the fermentation of the grape juice—and on its delicacy and other characteristics rests the first popular cla ification of the merit of a wine. The bouquet, or blume, which frequently suggests the odors of violets, almonds, etc., is a higher quality peculiar to certain varieties and generally a the factor chiefly responsible for giving A primitive Wine Pre , Madeira one wine a value of five dollars a bottle, while another of the same alcoholic content and general properties, may be listed at only fifty cents. The bouquet is due to obscure volatile oils or to ethers (other than cenanthic) developed by the combination of certain acids in the wine with the ethyl of the alcohol content—so intangible that they are not detectable by chemical agency, yet very distinct and real to the educated palate. Among the other substances which lend character are the saline compounds. These, the ashes of vegetable ti ues, exist in varying quantity in all fruits, and are found di olved in their juices, both before and after fermentation. “The most abundant is bitartrate of potash, or tartar, but there are numerous others, especially tartrate of lime, tartrate of iron, chloride of sodium, chloride and sulphate of pota ium, sulphate of potash and phosphate of alumina, occurring in a total proportion of from one to four parts in one you sand of wine. Their presence is one of the surest indications of the genuinene of a wine. Those who manufacture “wines” chiefly from alcohol and water, only incorporating a certain quantity of true wine for flavor, do not usually add these mineral constituents. The first great division of wines is by their color. Broadly, the cla ification is into “Red” and “White,” the latter including all wines which have no red in their composition. The best known of the Red Wines are the Clarets, Burgundies and Ports. Their color is due to the custom of permitting a partial preliminary fermentation of the grapes in their skins—for White Wine, the grapes are pre ed as quickly as po ible to avoid the skins coloring the juice. An accompanying attribute of Red Wine is tannic acid, which exists in some types to a considerable extent, and in many varieties, especially those from the south of France and Italy, gives a more or le marked astringency, which is not, though, in any way harmful to the human system. This astringency is usually absent from White Wines, though it is found in some of the darker varieties. Red Wines also generally contain more tart rates and iron, but le acetic ether. The next divisions are into “Sparkling” and “Still,” “Dry” and “Sweet.” Sparkling Wine is that in which remains part of the carbon-dioxide (gas) formed in the fermentation of the natural sugar of the grape juice or of the sugar or syrup added thereto. Still Wine is that from which the carbon-dioxide has been permitted to escape. The difference between “Dry” and “Sweet” wines is due sometimes to the greater quantity of natural sugar left in Bottling Room in a Malaga wine house SEPE aes S ONE_OF COPYRIGHT, UNDERWOOD & UNDERWOOD, N. T. THE GREAT WINE CELLARS AT MALAGA, SPAIN the latter during the proce of fermentation and sometimes to the addition of small quantities of sweetening afterwards —or to both causes. Clarets contain very little or no sugar; some Sauternes and “sweet” Champagnes sl.uw a considerable percentage. The “body” of a wine may be due to the unferment ed sugar content or, as in rich Rhine wines, to the glycerine contained. Natural wines to which neither alcohol nor syrup has been added, are very ‘ Cooper's Yard of a Tarragon a wine firm closely akin to the grape, for the proce of a is practically nothing but the fermentation of the fruit juice. The difference between grape juice and claret, for example, is only the conversion of the “solid matters” and sugar of the grape into alcohol, water and small proportions of glycerine, albuminoids, etc., as will be noted by the average analyses below: Grape Juice Claret SUT! ser i a rana pla ia 21.80 0.13 Alcohol. v4. were ATTRA PER rie ee za 9.83 Water. déserte nous es ALENIA Eo Re ete ee ee 76.87 87.61 GIYCOrINE plinto Minis ERO AOA RR EROE DIOR as 0.642 TADDID ai od abd lace da ro RARO ENO OBR EMR es SIR aes traces 0.238 ATDUMIDOLO; oriana 0.30 0.278 Total volatile acidity calculated as acetic acid........................ ioe 0.127 Total fixed acidity reckoned as tartaric ll. sr ein ann aan ers 0.69 0.460 Pota ium: Tartrate: san ah Da an 0.34 0.166 Total ‘mineral matter cis: cre arne ira mag a ne 0.34 0.220 Fortified Wines, both Dry and Sweet, are those to which alcohol—generally brandy, è. e., grape alcohol—has been added. The best-known examples are Port, ‘Madeira and the cheaper Sherries. The addition serves two purposes: (1) It gives the wine greater alcoholic strength than that of any “natural” wine, for no matter how heavy the grapes may be in sugar, fermentation is stopped when the alcohol formed by the fermentation of the juice reaches a percentage of about 17% by volume. (2) It makes po ible a product containing much of the natural sweetne of the juice. Grape juice, from fresh fruit, has generally exhausted its sugar in fermentation and COPYRIGHT, J. BROCHEREL Gathering grapes, Aosta, Italy COPYRIGHT, J. BROCHEREL Grape pickers carrying the filled tubs to the collecting wagons, Aosta, Italy is “dry” by the time it has formed a percentage of 9% to 12% alcohol—it seldom reaches the 17% point referred to—but if sufficient alcohol is added when the natural fermentation has only proceeded, say, half-way, much of the sweetne of the juice is retained in the wine. This natural sweetne is in many fortified wines supplemented by the addition of sugar or syrup. By U. S. Standards, all wine containing more than 16% alcohol is cla ed as Fortified. Storing and Care of Wines. Circumstances vary so greatly that it is difficult to formulate a practical set of rules for the storing and care of wines. It is easy to specify just what conditions should prevail and the proper position and temperature for each kind, but few retailers have the space or facilities for conducting an ideal wine cellar. A few cardinal principles must, however, be observed by everyone engaged in selling wines, no matter how limited the department may be, if they are to be turned over without lo and delivered in satisfactory condition. (1) The cellar is the best place for storing wines, if it is dry, well ventilated and of even temperature, not falling below 50° Fahr., and located where street traffic will not cause undue vibration; but if the cellar is damp or much exposed, an upper floor is safer. No sink or sewer should be in the vicinity of a cellar used for wines. (2) The temperature should average about 50° Fahr. for a mixed stock. Some wines keep better at a higher temperature, but where it is not practicable to give special attention to each variety, 50° Fahr. is a fair average for all. (3) Vegetables or strong smelling articles should never be stored. near wines. If po ible, the cellar, or floor. should be devoted exclusively to wine storage. Vegetables, growing plants, green wood, etc., are especially dangerous, as they are liable to start fermentation again. (4) The cellar door should never be left open, as variations are detrimental. (5) Every barrel should be inspected on receipt—leakage results in atmospheric contact and will spoil the wine. A cask which has thus lost some of its contents should be immediately refilled to avoid damage. In storing barrels, air-space should be left between each. (6) Every bottle and its cork should be inspected when received. If the bottles are to be placed in the wine-bin, their straw envelopes are best removed. If all other precautions are observed, wine may be left in cases, but if the wine-bin is suitably located and arranged, the bottles should be taken from the cases and placed in it. (7) When binning, the bottles should be placed preferably on racks, lying on their sides so that the wine covers the corks. Some wines may be stood up, but it is safest to make the rule that all bottled goods shall be kept on their sides. The position is absolutely imperative in the case of sparkling wines, as otherwise the drying of the cork will result in “flatne ” from the escape of the carbon-dioxide (gas). The bottles should also lie with their labels up, so that, when taken out and replaced, they are always returned to the same position with the least po ible disturbance of the sediment. Every bottle should rest on an even foundation and be safe against slipping. (8) If one side, or end, of the cellar is cooler than the other, the space should be a igned to Champagnes and Rhine and Moselle Wines. The warmest part should be given to Sherry, Madeira, etc. Port, Claret, Burgundy and Sauternes come in between. If there is no difference in temperature, the wines which require warmer atmosphere should be binned or stored on the upper racks. (9) If the cellar or other store-room is dry, but unavoidably exposed to either heat or cold, it is often advisable to bin the bottles in sawdust. Special care is then nece ary, for if the sawdust is damp, it will generate heat and damage the wines, and it is also liable, in some sections, to breed worms, which attack the corks. As a protection against the latter po ibility, the top of each bottle may be dipped in wax or rosin. The Wines Most Generally Consumed. The general American public does not show the diversified wine taste of the European. The average demand does not go beyond the various grades of Champagne, Claret, Rhine and Moselle Wines, Burgundy, Sauternes, Port and Sherry. To this list may be added, in some parts, a growing taste for Chianti and a limited consumption of Tokay, Madeira and Muscat. All of these are sold in both imported and domestic varieties. Consumers should be advised that, when po ible, it is best to allow fine clarets and Burgundies—and, in fact, nearly all wines and liquors—to rest a few days after delivery before opening them. The “Correct” Wines for a Special Dinner. It is not unusual for the retailer who has established a reputation for his wine department to be asked by his customer for information as to “the proper thing” in the way of wines for a special dinner or banquet. No fixed routine of wines can be specified as being the only proper service for a dinner, banquet or other affair, as the highest authorities differ on this point, but the theoretically correct service is that which offers, for each course, wine which both in flavor and strength “harmonizes” with the dishes of which that course is composed, while at the same time so arranging their sequence as both to lead the palate agreeably from course to course and to bring out, by contrast and the development of the palate, the full value of each succeeding wine. The fashion of the day carries, however, so much weight in all such affairs, that orthodox theories are often brushed aside. A few years ago saw a temporary revolution in wine service in England and also largely on the Continent and in this country —champagne was served throughout the entire meal, other wines being entirely disregarded. The “champagne only” idea is still upheld in some sets, but more general at present is the middle path—that of three or four well-chosen wines. It must, however, be borne in mind that though the service of champagne and, say, two other wines, is better on general principles than that of only champagne, the latter method is more up to date than the former “strictly correct” style of a long list of different wines. If one offers a full service, the sequence should be about as follows: COMMENCEMENT. An apérit if in the form of Punch (though this is unusual in America), a Cocktail, old Madeira, very dry Sherry or Vermouth. WITH THE OYSTERS. Light White Wines: Rhine or Moselle—as Hochheimer, Niersteiner, or Zeltinger; or White Bordeaux—as Graves or Sauternes; or White Burgundy—as Chablis. WITH THE SOUP. Sherry, as Dry Amontillado or Manzanilla. WITH THE FISH. Heavier White Wines, as Johannisberger, Steinberger or Montrachet. WITH THE ENTREE AND RELEVE (or “Remove”). Claret, as Pontet Canet, St. Julien or one of the minor Chateau brands; or Chianti, or Champagne. WITH THE GAME. Burgundy (red), as Pommard, Volnay or Chamber tin. WITH THE DESSERT. Rich Old Red Wines, as Port or fine Chateau Clarets; or rare vintages of White Wines, as Château-Yquem or Schlo Johannisberger; or Champagne; or Italian Wines, as Lacryma Christ i; or Spanish Wines, as Malaga—or similar wines of any country. WITH THE COFFEE. Liqueurs, as Créme de Men the, Chartreuse, Bénédictine or Fine Cognac. Also, throughout the meal, high-cla Table Waters. The choice of the particular brands, etc., must naturally depend on (1) the amount the host wishes to spend and his individual fancy or preference, and (2) the physical construction of the repast. 1.— Port, Madeira and similar wines 3.—Sherry 2.—Cocktail + and:5 _—Plain 9 gla ,; Claret, Chianti, ete.; with wines; green with bowl, rose Sauternes or ruby bowl, (and Burgundy other White Bordeaux wines): and Rhine i and Moselle Mose THESE ILLUSTRATIONS ARE FOUR-FIFTHS OF ORIGINAL SIZE 1.—Créme de men the 4.—Saucer Champagne THESE ILLUSTRATIONS 2.—Liqueurs 3.—Pony Brandy 5.—Hollow-stem Champagne ARE FOUR-FIFTHS OF ORIGINAL SIZE The simpler “intermediate” style referred to is shown in the two examples below: EXAMPLE A. An appetizer (apérit if) to commence with. White Wine with oysters, soup and fish. Champagne with the entrée, relevé and de ert. Burgundy (or fine claret) with the game. Liqueurs with the coffee. EXAMPLE B. White Wine with the oysters. Sherry with the soup and fish. Champagne with entrée, relevé, game and de ert. Liqueurs with the coffee. The two pages preceding show a number of “correct” gla es for different wines and liqueurs. Here again the choice or decision is largely a matter of individual taste, local custom or temporary vogue. If only the gla es shown are used, no adverse criticism is tenable, but various other styles might be followed and be considered in equally good form. Decanting, Serving and Temperature. ” The American preference is generally for bringing the original bottle of wine or spirits to the table, filling the gla es from it direct. This is also the correct method from an epicurean standpoint, as, in spite of some a ertions to the contrary, the decanting of wine (emptying the original bottle into a decanter before serving) cannot improve the bouquet or flavor, and very often results in losing a noticeable proportion of. both. Serving wine from the bottle needs, however, very careful handling in the case of older wines and others having a heavy sediment, as otherwise, in pouring into the gla es, the shaking of the bottle may mix particles of the sediment with the wine, detracting from the clearne which is so desirable. ‘The wisest policy is to make use of a WINE CRADLE (which see). î Unle served from a Wine Cradle, old still wine—particularly Claret, Burgundy and Port—that has been a long time in bottle, should be allowed to stand on end for twenty-four to thirty-six hours so as to permit the sediment to settle to the bottom.. If it is then considered advisable or preferable to decant it, a light may be placed behind the neck of the bottle while so doing—you can then see when the sediment has been reached. Before setting it to stand, it is best to partly extract the cork, so that when you are ready to decant, it can be removed with the least po ible agitation of the wine. i |; di automatic cork puller is almost indispensable for the easy and quiet removal of corks. i The common belief in this country that wines containing sediment are impure, is incorrect. All still wines cast sediment if left in the bottle long enough—a fact well understood in Europe. The same result may follow from weather influences during transportation. This sediment affects neither the flavor nor quality, if the bottles dre handled with sufficient care to avoid mixing the contents. The proce which results in its absence from sparkling wines of high grade is described in the article on CHAMPAGNE. Wine in open bottles should never be left uncorked longer than nece ary to serve. Champagne should be well chilled before serving, but ice should not be put in the gla es. White Wines, such as Burgundies, Rhine and Moselle Wines and Sauternes, are best at about the temperature of the cellar, 50° to 55° Fahr.; above this, they lose in taste and bouquet. Some people prefer Rhine and Moselle Wines served at a still lower temperature—about 45° Fahr. If too warm, they may be cooled by setting the bottles in iced water—not in ice, as too violent a change of temperature will weaken the bouquet of the finer types. Red Wines, such as Claret and Port, are best at a temperature of 60° to 65° Fahr.—about that of a moderately warm room. Burgundy (red) is generally best at 70° Fahr. Below these temperatures they lose in mellowne . As the cellar temperature is generally below 60° Fahr., such wines should be placed where the temperature is a little warmer for some hours before they are needed for consumption. Sherry and Madeira should be served at the average temperature for Red Wines, 65° Fahr. Sherry and Sweet Wines are especially liable to be chilled during transportation in cold weather and thus to lose their brilliancy. When this occurs, they should be placed for a time in a moderately warm and uniform temperature before putting into the cellar. COPYRIGHT, J. BROCHEREL 35 A wagon-load of grapes for the pre -house, Aosta, Italy [s. 693]