Galling

is the next great step in the Turkey-red preparation; and for its succe all the oil should have been perfectly saponified. From 18 to 20 pounds of Aleppo galls (for each 100 libs of cloth) are to be bruised and boiled for 3 or 4 hours, in 25 gallons of water, till 5 gallons be evaporated; and the decoction is to be then pa ed through a searce. Two pounds of sumach may be substituted for every pound of galls. The goods must be well padded with this decoction, kept at 90° F., pa ed through squeezing-rollers, and dried. They are then pa ed through a solution of alum of the sp. gr. 1·04, to which a certain portion of chalk is added to saturate the acid exce of that supersalt; and in this cretaceous mixture, heated to 110°, the cloth is winced and steeped for 12 hours. It is then pa ed between squeezing-rollers, and dried in the stove. The madder ing comes next. From two to three pounds of madder, ground to powder in a proper mill, are taken for every pound of cloth. The cloth, as usual in madder ing, is entered into the cold bath, and winced by the automatic reel during one hour that the bath takes to boil, and during an ebullition of two hours afterwards. One gallon of bullock’s blood is added to the cold bath for every 25 pounds of cloth; being the quantity operated upon in one bath. The utility of the blood in improving the colour has been ascribed to its colouring particles; but it is more probably owing to its albuminous matter combining with the marg a rates of soda and potash condensed in the fibres. As madder contains a dingy brown colouring matter a ociated with the fine red, the goods must be subjected to a clearing proce to remove the former tinge, which is more fugitive than the latter. Every hundred pounds of cloth are therefore boiled during 12 hours at least, with water containing 5 pounds of soda crystals, 8 pounds of soap, and 16 gallons of the residual pearl-ash and soda-lye of the last cleansing operation. By this powerful means the dun matter is well nigh removed; but it is completely so by a second boil, at a heat of 250° F., in a tight globular copper, along with 5 pounds of soap, and 1 pound of muriate of tin crystals, di olved in a sufficient body of water for 100 pounds of cloth. The muriate of tin serves to raise the madder red to a scarlet hue. A marg a rate of tin is probably fixed upon the cloth in this operation. When the weather permits, the goods should be now laid out for a few days on the gra . Some manufacturers give them a final brightening with a weak bath of a chloride of lime; but it is apt to impoverish the colour. According to the latest improvements of the French dyers, each of the four proce es of oiling, mordanting, dyeing, and brightening differs, in some respects, from the above. 1. Their first step is boiling the cloth for four hours, in water containing one pound of soap for every four pieces. Their saponaceous bath of a creamy aspect is used at a temperature of 75° F.; and it is applied by the padding machine 6 times, with the gra ing and drying alternations. In winter, when the goods cannot be exposed on the gra , no le than 12 alternations of the saponaceous or white bath are employed, and 8 in spring. They consider the action of the sun-beam to aid greatly in brightening this dye; but at Midsummer, if it be continued more than 4 hours, the scarlet colour produced begins to be impaired. They conceive that the oiling operation impregnates the fibres with super-marg a rate of potash or soda, insoluble salts which attract and condense the alumina, and the red colouring particles of the madder, so firmly that they can resist the clearing boil. 2. Their second step, the mordanting, consists first in padding the pieces through a decoction of galls mixed with a solution of an equal weight of alum; and after drying in the hot-flue, ., again padding them in a solution of an acetate of alumina, made by decomposing a solution of 16 libs. of alum with 16 libs of acetate of lead, for 6 pieces of cloth, each 32 aunes long. 3. The madder ing is given at two succe ive operations; with 4 pounds of Avignon madder per piece at each time. 4. The brightening is performed by a 12 hours’ boil in water with soda crystals, soap, and salt of tin; and the rosing by a 10 hours’ boil with soap and salt of tin. Occasionally, the goods are pa ed through a weak solution of chloride of potash. When the red has too much of a crimson cast, the pieces are exposed for two days on the gra , which gives them a bright scarlet tint. Proce of M. Werdet to dye broad cloth and wool by madder :— “Preparation for 24 pounds of scoured wool: “Take 4 1 ⁄ 4 pounds of cream of tartar, 4 1 ⁄ 4 pounds of pure alum; boil the wool gently for 2 hours, transfer it into a cool place, and wash it next day in clear water. “ Dyeing. —12 pounds of Avignon madder, infused half an hour at 30° R. (100° F.) Put into the bath 1 pound of muriate of tin, let the colour rose for three quarters of an hour at the same heat, and drain or squeeze the madder through canvas. The whole of the red dye will remain upon the filter, but the water which has pa ed through will be as deep a yellow as a weld bath. The boiler with the dye must now be filled up with clear river water, and heated to 100° F. Two ounces of the solution of the tartar and alum must be poured into it, and the wool must be turned over in it for an hour and a half, while the heat is gradually raised to the boiling point. The wool is then removed and washed. It must be rosed the following day. “ Rosing. —Di olve in hot water 1 pound of white Marseilles soap; let the bath cool, and pa the wool through it till it has acquired the desired shade; 15 or 20 minutes are sufficient. On coming out of this bath it should be washed. “ Solution of deuto-muriate of tin :— “2 ounces of pure muriatic acid; 4 drachms of pure nitric acid; 1 ounce of distilled water. Di olve in it, by small portions at a time, 2 drachms of grain tin, in a large bottle of white gla , shutting it after putting in the tin. This solution may be preserved for years, without losing its virtue.” I have inserted this proce , as recently recommended by the French minister of commerce, and published by M. Pouillet in vol. i. of his Portefeuille In dust riel, to show what official importance is sometimes given by our neighbours to the most frivolous things. | Madders imported for home consumption. | Gro amount of Duty paid in | | 1836. | 1837. | 1836. | 1837. | | Cwts. 106,172 | cwts. 79,228 | £ 10,810 | £ 8,081 |