A Dictionary of Men’s Wear

Embracing all the terms (so far as could be gathered) used in the men’s wear trades expre iv of raw and finisht products and of various stages and items of production; selling terms; trade and popular slang and cant terms; and many other things curious, pertinent and impertinent; with an appendix containing sundry useful tables; the uniforms of “ancient and honorable” independent military companies of the U. S.; charts of correct dre , livery, and so forth. By William Henry Baker Author of “A Dictionary of Engraving” IMG:659922744467461391_i_003.jpg:[Logo] “A good dictionary is truly very interesting reading in spite of the man who declared that such an one changed the subject too often.” — S William Beck CLEVELAND WILLIAM HENRY BAKER 1908 Pre of The Britton Printing Co Cleveland dedication Conforming to custom this unconventional book is Dedicated to those most likely to be benefitted, i. e., to The 15000 or so Retail Clothiers The 15000 or so Custom Tailors The 1200 or so Clothing Manufacturers The 5000 or so Woolen and Cotton Mills The 22000 or so Retail Shoe Dealers The 2300 or so Shoe Manufacturers and Jobbers The 19000 or so Retail Hatters The 1000 or so Hat and Cap Manufacturers and Jobbers The 12000 or so Haberdashers The 22000 or so Dry Goods and Department Stores And other allied lines of busine in this country Alike to owners and employes and especially to “The Advertising Man” Who usually gets all that is coming to him and finally To every man with a library explanatory Some seven years ago the author, then connected with a clothing manufacturing concern as advertising manager, wrote a compact little “Clothes Dictionary” which was presented to the trade with the compliments of the publishers. All definitions were short and to the point, many were humorous, and all were within a nece arily limited scope of interest. There had never been anything like it and the book “caught on” immediately, with the result that the author thereupon went to work seriously to compile a larger, fuller, more comprehensiv dictionary along similar lines. The present book is the result. Six years or more (as time permitted) have been spent in reading, listening and correspondence for new terms and new meanings. Naturally, as all first compilations must inevitably be, the book is, frankly, lacking many definitions, particularly of terms in popular use long ago, and doubtle , many of today. Wherefore no claim is made that the book is complete, but it is believed that it is reasonably so—or usably so. In compilation the main purpose has been to make the book comprehensiv (covering about everything of men’s wear, use and interest) and, contrary to most dictionaries, encyclopedias and the like, interesting. Altho the title specifies “men’s wear”, the book broadly covers many items of women’s wear (as many fabrics, etc., are common to both sexes), and except that items of strictly women’s wear have been omitted, might have been entitled “A Dictionary of Apparel”, and should, therefore, be of quite as much interest to the straight dry goods merchant as to the modern clothier. The definitions are not tiresomely long—not any of them—but all are of sufficient length to cover e entials and are accurate and reliable; and, altho the dictionary is somewhat encyclopedic, it is not intended that it shall take the place of any encyclopedia. A feature of its forerunner that may be appreciated is that many of the le important and more obvious terms are dismist quite briefly or else freely or facetiously handled—enough so to induce one to search the pages for these alone. Obviously, no hard and fast rules could be set to govern the work. Each term had to be considered in itself and explained so clearly, without waste (or skimping) of words, as to be understandable without the aid of pictures. That there has been no nece ity for illustrations and that the book has been otherwise brightened without them the author considers somewhat of an achievment. In a word, it has been the aim of the author to make simply a handy reference book, “popular” rather than learned, helping one over transient needs, leaving the wearying technical di ertations to text books, encyclopedias, etc. If this has been accomplisht, there is great cause for satisfaction to William Henry Baker Cleveland, 1908 memorandum Please don’t be provoked by the use of “simplified spelling.” It helpt me cram much more in the compa of this book than could have been done with the use of some of our superannuated forms. Besides, simplification is the order of the day, and we might as well get used to it, every one of us. And, again, only the le jarring and those surest of early adoption have been used: there’s a conce ion to conservatism and “the conventions”. Neither permit the abbreviation of repetitions of index-words to the initial letters thereof to confuse you. The eye catches the sense and simplicity of the scheme quickly enough (the brain should be no le nimble)—and the eye must not be offended. Besides, this has saved me more space than “simplified spelling”. Please notice, further, that this is not a pronouncing dictionary. Most people in the trade don’t need this feature, thru daily familiarity with the terms, even tho they may not thoroly understand them—which is nothing unusual. And so, to keep as many “high-browed” features out of the way as was po ible, and to make this just a handy look-into book for everyday folks (such a book as I have longed for for my own use) pronunciation, grammar-cla ing, and such like devices of the weary big-books were deemed superfluous and dropt. You will have to go to them, anyway, on some subjects which this book treats briefly—why tire you beforehand?—W. H. B. authorities Consulted New International Encyclopedia Standard Dictionary Cole’s “Encyclopedia of Dry Goods” Giles’ “History of Cutting in England” Planche’s “History of Costume” Mrs. Earle’s “Two Centuries of Costume in America”, “Costume of Colonial Days”, etc. Mrs. Aria’s “Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical” Mitchell’s “New Standard Coat System” Croonborg’s “Supreme System for Men’s Garments” Baker’s “Clothes Dictionary” Beck’s “Gloves: Their Annals and A ociations” Boutell’s “Arms and Armour” Rimmel’s “The Book of Perfumes” Edwards’ “History and Poetry of Finger Rings” Hamersly’s “Naval Encyclopedia” “Clothes and the Man” by the “Major” of Today “The Complete Bachelor” by the author of the “As Seen by Him” papers Johnston’s “Clans and Their Tartans” Farmer’s “American isms, Old and New” U. S. War Dept. General Orders No. 169, Aug. 14, 1907, et seq. (Uniform Regulations) U. S. Navy Dept. Uniform Regulations, 1905 U. S. Marine Corps Uniform Regulations, 1908 U. S. Interior Dept. Bureau of Forestry Uniform Regulations U. S. Treasury Dept., Circular No. 3, Customs Officer’s Uniforms, Jan. 3, 1905 U. S. Treasury Dept. Revised Regulations, Uniforms U. S. Revenue Cutter Service, 1900, et seq. U. S. State Dept. Report on Silk and Silk Manufactures (Cowdin) New York City Police Dept. Manual, 1905 New York City Fire Dept. Regulations, 1905 Chicago Police Dept. Uniform Regulations Chicago Fire Dept. Uniform Regulations “Sartorial Art Journal” “American Tailor and Cutter” “American Gentleman” “Daily Trade Record” “Apparel Gazette” “The Haberdasher” “Clothier and Furnisher” “American Hatter” “American Silk Trade Journal” “Dry Goods Economist” “Jeweler’s Circular” “Boot and Shoe Recorder” “Fibre and Fabric” and other trade journals Many reference books and other books not specially consulted for this purpose Various Government reports not separately credited Numerous trade catalogs, brochures, etc. personal Acknowledgments In recognition of interest and a istance rendered in the matter of definitions, etc.: S. S. Paupst, ex-secretary International Custom Cutters’ A ociation of America, Cleveland John A. Carlstrom, ex-president International Custom Cutters’ A ociation of America, author of “Proportions of the Human Form” and other works on tailoring, New York Samuel Dreyer, of Alschuler, Dreyer & Co., clothing manufacturers, Chicago Globe Woolen Co., New York Schnabel Bros., woolens, New York Regal Shoe Co., East Whitman, Ma . J. Harry Selz, of Selz, Schwab & Co., shoemakers, Chicago The Crofut & Knapp Co., hat manufacturers, New York Spear & Co., cap manufacturers, New York Members of various independent military companies (in most instances, the commanding officer) for matter in appendix While particular and grateful acknowledgment is due to fellow workers in the clothing and dry goods trades, from whom the argot and lingo of the trade emanates and becomes, finally, “good English” dictionary A