APRICOT

( Arm eniac a vulgar is ). The Apricot, or, as it was formerly written, "Abricock," is a much esteemed and luscious fruit. It is said to have been introduced into this country during the reign of Henry VIII. The Apricot is one of the earliest flowering of fruit-trees (see Fig. 129), and is generally in bloom during February. This fact is a great drawback, as it is a difficult matter to save the flowers from destruction by the spring winds and frosts. The fruit (see Fig. 130) contains le acid than most stone fruits, and in appearance it is perhaps the handsomest of all. Succe with its culture in many gardens is by no means certain, but with careful preparation of borders and protection of the flowers in spring, satisfactory results are often obtained. Large quantities of fruit are annually imported to this country from France; but their quality and flavour cannot be compared with that of good home-grown produce. IMG:7081556231692414330_i_098b.jpg: F IG . 129. B LOSSOM OF A PRICOT . Propagation is effected by seeds or budding. The stones, selected from the best varieties, may be sown as soon as the fruit is ripe, in August or September, in light rich soil, and covered with about 2in. of earth, over which a little litter should be spread during winter. After one season's growth, the plants should be lifted, and the tap roots slightly cut back if the trees are intended for walls. They should then be planted in nursery lines, allowing about a yard between the rows, and 2ft. from plant to plant. IMG:7081556231692414330_i_098c.jpg: F IG . 130. F RUITING B RANCH OF A PRICOT . Budding is the most general mode of propagating Apricots. They are frequently budded from the beginning to the middle of June on seedling, and also on plum stocks, of which latter the Mu ell, Saint Julien, Bru els, and Black Damson are the best. For dwarf trees, the stock should be budded about 1ft. from the ground. There are many disadvantages in having a great length of stem. "Rider" trees require a stem from 3½ft. to 6ft.; half-riders, 2½ft. to 3ft. Grafting by the Whip method is sometimes employed, but, for many reasons, it is much inferior to Budding. Planting, . South-west and western aspects suit the Apricot best, but the fruit has been ripened in warm localities on walls facing several points north. Large areas of garden wall (see Figs. 131 and 132), the walls of stables, barns, outbuildings, and two sides of at least hundreds of cottages, might thus be utilised for the cultivation of this tree. If well drained, almost any garden soil will bring these fruits to perfection; light, fibrous, rather sandy loam will, however, prove most satisfactory. There should be a considerable depth of soil; a yard is not too much, provided it be on a dry base, which is most important. Heavy soils may be improved for Apricot culture by the addition of an equal portion of light loam, mortar rubbish, or charred refuse. In furnishing walls, the distance apart may vary from 2ft. between Cordons, to 12ft., 15ft., or even 20ft. between Fan-shaped trees. The roots should be carefully arranged, interlayered at all points with fine soil, and the whole covered to a depth of 3in. or 4in. Not only should the roots have a good covering of suitable earth, but a secondary one of litter, or other light material, should be added, to render them frost proof in winter, and drought and heat proof in summer. Newly planted trees should, on no account, be allowed to get dry at the root. A thorough soaking of soft rain, or manure water, will often save a crop, and restore the trees, when all other surface remedies or appliances fail. Surface sprinklings overhead with the garden engine, in the afternoons of bright days, are beneficial, and help to keep the foliage clean and healthy. So soon as the trees are cleared of their fruit, attention should be directed to the maturation of the wood. All superfluous shoots should be removed, any exce of growth left on the shoots cut back, and every effort made to perfect the wood already made, rather than force the tree to make more. Unle the weather be very dry, water should not be applied after this stage. IMG:7081556231692414330_i_099a.jpg: F IG . 131. A PRICOT T REE , showing method of Wall Training. Protection. It is almost hopele to expect a crop unle the blo oms are protected, by mats or other means, from spring frosts. Temporary wooden copings, from 1ft. to 2ft. wide, laid on iron brackets, are indispensable for warding off storms, and keeping other coverings away from the flowers. These should not be put up till the trees are just bursting into bloom, and may safely be removed about the end of May. A few fish or other nets, spread over the trees, afford considerable resistance to the radiation of heat. This is a uredly one of the easiest, if not one of the most efficient, modes of protection. Frigi-domo and other thick shadings are sometimes used, but they require to be removed from the trees in the day time. The thinner nets mentioned are generally not in use for other purposes at this time of year, and may remain over the trees altogether. Gla copings are the best, but, being rather expensive, they cannot be used by the majority of cultivators. They have, however, been applied with good results to trees that had previously failed. IMG:7081556231692414330_i_099b.jpg: F IG . 132. A PRICOT T REE , showing method of Training suitable for Gable Ends of Cottages. Cropping, . Thinning of the fruit needs early and careful attention. The average of 3in. apart may be chosen for a maximum yield. As the fruit approach maturity, overhanging leaves, or branches of young wood, must be removed, to admit sun and light to properly ripen and colour them. Apricots for preserving should be gathered quite dry, and with the sun upon them. For de ert, they should be plucked in the morning, and placed in a cool room till wanted. Under Gla . The Apricot will hardly bear forcing. It is more sensitive to heat than almost any other of our semi-hardy fruits. Practically, it is found that a confined atmosphere, or the slightest exce of heat, brings its blooms off in showers, and this, of course, mars all prospect of fruit. But in cold climates and northern latitudes under gla is the best and only means of growing them. Should red-spider appear, it is proof that the roots or the atmosphere, probably both, have been too dry; more moisture, and syringing over the leaves, are the surest remedies. The borders need to be about 2ft. or 2ft. 6in. deep, of any light rich soil. Fresh planted trees should be frequently syringed overhead before and after the flowering period. After they have become fully established, le overhead sprinkling is needed. During all the earlier stages of growth, and until the fruit are stoned, an artificial temperature of 45deg. should not be exceeded. After that stage, the fruit will bear a heat of 50deg. or 55deg. It is hardly safe or desirable to exceed the latter under gla , and unle abundance of air is given, 55deg. may bring off the fruit, even at an advanced stage. A thorough soaking, at intervals of fourteen days during the height of the growing season, may be applied; and, should the trees be heavily cropped, manure water may be given at every alternate watering. It is also a good practice to mulch the surface of heavily cropped trees with 3in. or 4in. of good dung. The fruit should, however, be freely thinned to distances of from 4in. to 6in. apart at the most. There are three general methods of growing them under gla : The trees may be trained on trellises or walls; grown as natural standards, tall or dwarf; and as bushes, either planted out or in pots. Varieties. The varieties of Apricot, unlike most other fruit, are not numerous; and the following will be found in every way representative and satisfactory: