TERRAPIN

The diamond-back, which is the kind always inferred when terrapin is mentioned, is the female of any one of several species of Malaclemys, a genus of small salt-marsh tortoises, named for the diamond-shape markings of their shells. Within the last half century they have developed from almost a waste product—an article fed to slaves and apprentices before the Civil War—into one of the costliest of food delicacies. The most highly valued species—the Chesapeake and the Louis jan a—now bring (at wholesale) from $2.50 to $8 apiece, the figures steadily rising with the diminishing supply. The terrapin from the mouth of the Chesapeake River was formerly considered as a separate (and the choicest) kind, but the same species (carrying the title of ‘‘Chesapeake’’) extends south to the North Carolina sounds and as far north as Buzzard’s Bay. Some of the finest specimens are caught along the New York and southern New England coast—those from Long Island commanding the highest prices of all in the New York market. And the Louisiana species is considered by many judges fully as choice as the Chesapeake. _ It is only the female, or ‘‘cow,’’ terrapin which is sought. The ‘‘bull’’ has little value—it is used only for soups. The choicest are those styled ‘‘full cows’’—i.e., those containing eggs. ‘‘Counts’’ are terrapins of six inches or more in length— measuring the under-shell; ‘‘half-counts’’ are from five to six inches; those under five inches are ‘‘shorts.’”? The range of size is from two to nine inches, each inch of, length representing commonly a little more than a vear of growth. After six inches, the growth is very slow. Those of six to seven inches bring the highest prices— larger specimens rest under the suspicion of being unduly old. The Texas, Carolina, and Florida species are also marketed. They lack, though— or at all events the two latter do—the true delicacy of flesh and are consequently much lower in price—particularly the Florida because of its different markings. The ‘‘slider,’’ or ‘‘red-hellied terrapin,’ often used as a substitute for the diamond-hack, is a small fresh-water tortoise. It is good for soup, but over-hard and coarse for stewing. Its eggs are regarded as very choice. A develop img industry is the establishment of terrapin-farms in which the creatures are bred and raised for the market. The diamond-hack terrapin is wasted on any one save an epicure of very diseriminating palate, and even on him unle it profit first by the service of a culinary adept, for the difference in flesh between the true diamond-back and many masquerading counterfeits is so slight that only the combination of high profe ional skill and a keen palate justifies the enormous difference in price. The flesh of both the diamond-back and various of its substitutes is alike in being highly gelatinous; and in owing fame chiefly to its adaptability and quick response to skillful cooking.