LAMB

by modern American usage, is the meat of sheep under twelve months old. The traditional dividing line between the oldest lamb (‘‘yearling”’ or ‘‘fall’’ or ‘‘winter’’) and mutton (the flesh of the mature animal) is the ‘‘break joint’’ test. If the bone above the ankle ‘‘breaks’’ readily, it is lamb; if it does not, it is mutton. In the latter case, the foot is removed at the ankle joint instead of by breaking. This test however includes as lamb many sheep between one and two years of age —which is considerably above the average age of market offerings, the tendency among growers 1 recent vears being strongiy towards shipping younger stock to market for sale as ‘‘spring lamb.’’ Spring lamb is divided into tender young animals of only eighteen to thirty pounds’ dre ed weight, in full season from early spring to June, and the larger carca es and coarser type of lambs marketed during the fall and winter—chiefly of spring-born lambs bought from the growers in the fall and fattened by profe ional feeders. “‘TTothouse’’ lamb is very early, young spring lamb obtained usually by early breeding stimulated by transferring the sheep from cool to warm climates. It is much more difficult to keep lamb in good condition than mutton and it also varies greatly in quality—the delicate flesh of the live animal being readily injured by rough treatment, storms, and poor food. The color and quality of the fat on the back and around the kidneys affords the best test—it should be white, eveneolored, and hard. The cuts are known by the same titles as mutton cuts. See the color-page opposite and diagrams in the article on Mutton. Genuine young spring lamb requires careful cooking to bring to the table its full po ibilities. As it suffers greatly from shrinkage and drying-out, over-roasting should be avoided, and it should be served as quickly as po ible after coming from the spit or oven.