TRUFELE

a kind of fungus. It grows in clusters a few inches under the ground: —somewhat like a potato, but without either roots or upper parts of any deseription. Furthermore, the spores, or seeds, concealed in its cells never develop within them! The key to the mystery is found in the activities of insects attracted by the peculiar, aromatic truffle odor permeating the soil—they break into the funeus and later unwittingly carry its spores onto the leaves of the trees nearby. The spores are there developed to some extent and then carried back to the soil as the leaves fall, to sprout downwards and commence the formation of new fungi---and tims a new mystery for the uninitiated! Truffles so freely absorb the nutriment of the soil that nothing except the trees which give them shade is able to grow in the vicinity, so one recognizes a truffitre by its bare and generally somewhat cracked surface. As, however, the fungi themselves show no sign above the ground, they are generally located by scent by trained, leashed dogs or hogs. The harvest takes place in winter and lasts for three or four months. The market perforce relies upon wild truffles, for attempts to grow them commercially have never proved succe ful. The most famous species is the Périgord, which takes its name from the former French province of Périgord, the greater part of which is included in the present department of Dordogne. Its high reputation is due to its especially delicate aroma and its regularity of appearance. It varies in size from that of a walnut to a me dium-size potato, and is roundish, with a rough, warty, brown or black exterior. Inside, it is of a blackish grey or black according to its age, marbled with fine white veins. It grows most freely in forests of chéne nain (a dwarf oak), beech, and some other trees—where the soil is chalky or clayey, light in composition, and comparatively free from stones, and preferably on sloping ground. Warmth and plenty of rain are e ential for a good crop. The truffles of other parts of France, as also those of Germany, Spain, England, California, and other parts of the world, are all cla ed as decidedly inferior to the Périgord. The white truffle is a minor German and English variety which grows half above ground, is whitish-red, and commonly of the size of a large walnut. The Italian truffle, of somewhat different type, is brownish outside, pale liver colored or yellowish within, and garlic-scented. It is generally of about the same: size as other kinds, but occasionally attains to much greater proportions, up to: ma es of from ten to twelve pounds. It has comparatively little flavor. The flesh of all varieties is meaty rather than vegetable in character. The preparation of Périgord truffles for the market includes the removal of the adhermg earth, washing with special brushes, grading by size and quality, and (usually) putting in cans, boxes, jars, or bottles for the cooking nece ary for their preservation. Great care is taken to minimize the impairment of their delicacy. Some lo is inevitable—no canned, or otherwise preserved, truffle has the full aroma of one fresh dug. The choicest are those which are the largest, roundest, blackest, and most highly perfumed. They are marketed with the skins removed as ‘‘peeled truffles.”’ The next in grade are those which have been simply brushed (‘‘brushed truffles’’), and then the pieces and parings (the residue from peeled truffles). Truffles are used chiefly for garnishing and dre ing. The best qualities are expensive, but the parings are sold at comparatively low prices and wil] answer all ordinary requirements. If only part of the contents of a can is used, it should be tightly covered in order to protect the remaining truffles as much as po ible from contact with the air. If the opened can is to be kept for a considerable time, the advice of a well-known chef is to take the additional preeaution of pouring bacon or poultry fat over the remaining truffles. As, however, no precaution will infallibly preserve the aroma and full flavor, it is preferable to purchase in sizes to suit one’s needs, so that the entire contents of a can may be consumed shortly after opening. This is generally po ible, for truffles are put up in containers of many styles, the smallest being very smal! indeed.