OYSTER-PLANT

or Vegetable Oyster, or Salsify (7ragopogon porrifolius), a plant reaching two to four feet in height at maturity, native to southern Europe and now generally cultivated in this country—chiefly for its root, which attains a length of about twelve inches and a top diameter of about two ~tapering in shape, Ove with yellowish-grey skin and white flesh containing a large proportion of milky white juice. The flavor of the cooked root resembles that of the oyster—hence the popular title of the plant. It is prepared in various ways— washed (not scraped), then boiled until tender, peeled, and served like asparagus; or seraped and placed in a mild: vinegar solution to prevent the flesh turning black, then half-boiled and grated fine, made into small, flat balls, dipped in batter, and fried like oysters; or stewed like carrots, ete. Roots stored for winter use should be kept cool and moist, or they will shrivel and become tough. They may, when convenient, be left in the ground and dug as needed, for freezing does them no harm. If the root is not dug for use in the winter, the young flower-stalks may be cut in the spring following te be dre ed and served like asparagus, which they resemble in flavor. The white part of the stalk and the leafy heart of the young top leaves, if well blanched, make an excellent salad. In England the plant is colloquially known as ‘‘John-go-to-bed-at-noon’’ because its hght purple or purplish-red flowers close in the middle of the day. Black Oyster-plant, or ‘‘ Black Salsify’’ (Scorzonera hispanic a), a smaller plant, has a root similar in flesh flavor, size, and uses, but with a black skin. Many people consider it superior. It is, however, seldom marketed because it is more difficult to raise. Above ground, black oyster-plant is distinguished by its broader leaves and yellow flowers. Its young leaves also are very good for salads. The Common and Black oyster-plants are shown on the color-page opposite. Spanish Oyster-plant, or ‘‘Spanish Salsify,’’ or ‘‘Golden Thistle’? (Scolymus hispanic us), is a third vegetable of the same general type. Its root resembles that of the first-deseribed oyster-plant, except that it is of a still lighter color. Its flavor is not so highly developed, but it is pleasing if properly cooked—-suggesting a blend of oyster-plant and parsnip—and it has the advantage of greater size and productivene . Its prickly leaves render it, though, a plant which requires circumspect handling. The Encyclopedia of Food — Q **Q**