PEARLS, ARTIFICIAL

A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines · 1840 · p. 956
These are small globules or pear-shaped spheroids of thin gla , perforated with two opposite holes, through which they are strung, and mounted into necklaces, ., like real pearl ornaments. They must not only be white and brilliant, but exhibit the iridescent reflections of mother of pearl. The liquor employed to imitate the pearly lustre, is called the e ence of the east ( e ence d’orient ), which is prepared by throwing into water of ammonia the brilliant scales, or rather the lamellæ , separated by washing and friction, of the scales of a small river fish, the blay, called in French ablette . These scales digested in ammonia, having acquired a degree of softne and flexibility which allow of their application to the inner surfaces of the gla globules, they are introduced by suction of the liquor containing them in suspension. The ammonia is volatilized in the act of drying the globules. It is said that some manufacturers employ ammonia merely to prevent the alteration of the scales; that when they wish to make use of them, they suspend them in a well clarified solution of isingla , then pour a drop of the mixture into each bead, and spread it round the inner surface. It is doubtful whether by this method, the same lustre and play of colours can be obtained as by the former. It seems moreover to be of importance for the succe of the imitation, that the globules be formed of a bluish, opalescent, very thin gla , containing but little potash and oxide of lead. In every manufactory of artificial pearls, there must be some workmen po e ed of great experience and dexterity. The French are supposed to excel in this ingenious branch of industry.
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