CHEESE

Syn. Ca′seum , Ca′seus , L. The curd of milk compre ed into a solid ma . That of commerce is usually salted and dried, and in some varieties it is also coloured and flavoured. The proce of cheese-making is one which is eminently interesting and scientific, and which, in every gradation, depends on principles which chemistry has developed and illustrated. When a vegetable or mineral acid is added to milk, and heat applied, a coagulum is formed, which, when separated from the liquid portion, constitutes cheese. Neutral salts, earthy and metallic salts, sugar, and gum Arabic, as well as some other substances, also produce the same effect; but that which answers the purpose best, and which is almost exclusively used by dairy farmers, is rennet, or the mucous membrane of the last stomach of the calf. Alkalies di olve this curd at a boiling heat, and acids again precipitate it. The solubility of casein in milk is occasioned by the presence of the phosphates and other salts of the alkalies. In fresh milk these substances may be readily detected by the property it po e es of restoring the colour of reddened litmus paper. The addition of an acid neutralises the alkali, and so precipitates the curd in an insoluble state. The philosophy of cheese-making is thus expounded by Liebig:— “The acid indispensable to the coagulation of milk is not added to the milk in the preparation of cheese, but it is formed in the milk at the expense of the milk-sugar present. A small quantity of water is left in contact with a small quantity of a calf’s stomach for a few hours, or for a night; the water absorbs so minute a portion of the mucous membrane as to be scarcely ponderable; this is mixed with milk; its state of transformation is communicated (and this is a most important circumstance), not to the cheese, but to the milk-sugar, the elements of which transpose themselves into lactic acid, which neutralises the alkalies, and thus causes the separation of the cheese. By means of litmus paper the proce may be followed and observed through all its stages; the alkaline reaction of the milk ceases as soon as the coagulation begins. If the cheese is not immediately separated from the whey, the formation of lactic acid continues, the fluid turns acid, and the cheese itself pa es into a state of decomposition. “When cheese-curd is kept in a cool place a series of transformations takes place, in consequence of which it a umes entirely new properties; it gradually becomes semi-transparent, and more or le soft, throughout the whole ma ; it exhibits a feebly acid reaction, and develops the characteristic caseous odour. Fresh cheese is very sparingly soluble in water, but after having been left to itself for two or three years it becomes (especially if all the fat be previously removed) almost completely soluble in cold water, forming with it a solution which, like milk, is coagulated by the addition of the acetic or any mineral acid. The cheese, which whilst fresh is insoluble, returns during the maturation, or ripening, as it is called, to a state similar to that in which it originally existed in the milk. In those English, Dutch, and Swi cheeses which are nearly inodorous, and in the superior kinds of French cheese, the caseine of the milk is present in its unaltered state. “The odour and flavour of the cheese is owing to the decomposition of the butter; the non-volatile acids, the margaric and oleic acids, and the volatile butyric acid, capric and caproic acids are liberated in consequence of the decomposition of glycerin. Butyric acid imparts to cheese its characteristic caseous odour, and the differences in its pungency or aromatic flavour depend upon the proportion of free butyric, capric, and caproic acids present.” In the cheese of certain dairies and districts, valerianic acid has been detected along with the other acids just referred to. Me rs Jljenko and Laskowski found this acid in the cheese of Limbourg, and M. Bolard in that of Roque fort. “The transition of the insoluble into soluble casein depends upon the decomposition of the phosphate of lime by the margaric acid of the butter; marg a rate of lime is formed, whilst the phosphoric acid combines with the casein, forming a compound soluble in water. “The bad smell of inferior kinds of cheese, especially those called meagre or poor cheeses, is caused by certain fetid products containing sulphur, and which are formed by the decomposition or putrefaction of the casein. The alteration which the butter undergoes (that is, in becoming rancid), or which occurs in the milk-sugar still present, being transmitted to the casein, changes both the composition of the latter substance and its nutritive qualities. “The principal conditions for the preparation of the superior kinds of cheese (other obvious circumstances being of course duly regarded) are a careful removal of the whey, which holds the milk-sugar in solution, and a low temperature during the maturation or ripening of the cheese.” Cheese differs vastly in quality and flavour, according to the method employed in its manufacture and the richne of the milk of which it is made. Much depends upon the quantity of cream it contains, and consequently, when a superior quality of cheese is desired, cream is frequently added to the curd. This plan is adopted in the manufacture of Stilton cheese and others of a like description. The addition of a pound or two of butter to the curd for a middling size cheese also vastly improves the quality of the product. To ensure the richne of the milk, not only should the cows be properly fed, but certain breeds chosen. Those of Alderney, Cheddar, Cheshire, Gloucestershire, Guernsey, and North Wilts hire deserve a preference in this respect. The materials employed in making cheese are milk and rennet. Rennet is used either fresh or salted and dried; generally in the latter state. The milk may be of any kind, according to the quality of the cheese required. Cows’ milk is that generally employed; but occasionally ewes’ milk is used; and sometimes, though more rarely, that from goats. In preparing his cheese, the dairy farmer puts the greater portion of the milk into a large tub, to which he adds the remainder, sufficiently heated to raise the temperature to that of new milk. The whole is then whisked together, the rennet or rennet liquor added, and the tub covered over. It is now allowed to stand until completely “turned,” when the curd is gently struck down several times with the skimming-dish, after which it is allowed to subside. The vat covered with cheese-cloth is next placed on a “horse” or “ladder” over the tub, and filled with curd by means of the skimmer, care being taken to allow as little as po ible of the oily particles or butter to run back with the whey. The curd is pre ed down with the hands, and more added as it sinks. This proce is repeated until the curd rises to about two inches above the edge. The newly formed cheese, thus partially separated from the whey, is now placed in a clean tub, and a proper quantity of salt added, as well as of annotta, when that colouring is used, after which a board is placed over and under it, and pre ure applied for about 2 or 3 hours. The cheese is next turned out and surrounded by a fresh cheese-cloth, and then again submitted to pre ure in the cheese pre for 8 or 10 hours, after which it is commonly removed from the pre , salted all over, and again pre ed for 15 to 20 hours. The quality of the cheese especially depends on this part of the proce , as if any of the whey is left in the cheese it rapidly becomes bad-flavoured. Before placing it in the pre the last time the common practice is to pare the edges smooth and sightly. It now only remains to wash the outside of the cheese in warm whey or water, to wipe it dry, and to colour it with annotta or reddle, as is usually done. The storing of the newly-made cheese is the next point that engages the attention of the maker and wholesale dealer. The same principles which influence the maturation or ripening of fermented liquors also operate here. In England, a cool cellar, neither damp nor dry, and which is uninfluenced by change of weather or season, is commonly regarded as the best for the purpose. If po ible, the temperature should on no account be permitted to exceed 50° or 52° Fahr. at any portion of the year. An average of about 45° is preferable when it can be procured. A place exposed to sudden changes of temperature is as unfit for storing cheese as it is for storing beer. “The quality of Rochefort cheese, which is prepared from sheep’s milk, and is very excellent, depends exclusively upon the places where the cheeses are kept after pre ing and during maturation. Those are cellars, communicating with mountain grottoes and caverns, which are kept constantly cool, at about 41° to 42° Fahr., by currents of air from clefts in the mountains. The value of these cellars as storehouses varies with their property of maintaining an equable and low temperature. Giron mentions that a certain cellar, the construction of which had cost only 480 l. (12,000 francs), was sold for 8600 l. (215,000 francs), being found to maintain a suitable temperature, a convincing proof of the importance attached to temperature in the preparation of these superior cheeses.” (Liebig.) It will thus be seen that very slight differences in the materials, in the preparation, or in storing of the cheese, materially influence the quality and flavour of this article. The richne of the milk—the addition to or subtraction of cream from the milk—the separation of the curd from the whey with or without compre ion—the salting of the curd—the collection of the curd, either whole or broken, before pre ing—the addition of colouring matter, as annotta or saffron, or of flavouring—the place and method of storing—and the length of time allowed for maturation, all tend to alter the taste and odour of the cheese in some or other particular, and that in a way readily perceptible to the palate of the connoi eur. No other alimentary substance appears to be so seriously affected by slight variations in the quality of the materials from which it is made, or by such apparently trifling differences in the methods of preparing it. Var. The varieties of cheese met with in commerce are very numerous, and differ greatly from each other in richne , colour, and flavour. These are commonly distinguished by names indicative of the places in which they have been manufactured, or of the quality of the materials from which they have been prepared. Thus, we have Dutch, Gloucester, Stilton, skimmed-milk, raw-milk, cream, and other cheeses; names which explain themselves. The following are the principal varieties met with in Europe:— Cheese, Brickbat. From its form; made in Wilts hire of new milk and cream. Cheese, Cheddar. A fine, spongy kind of cheese, the eyes or vesicles of which contain a rich oil; made up into round, thick cheeses, of considerable size (150 to 200 lbs.). Cheese, Cheshire. From new milk, without skimming, the morning’s milk being mixed with that of the preceding evening, previously warmed, so that the whole may be brought to the heat of new milk. To this the rennet is added, in le quantity than is commonly used for other kinds of cheese. On this point much of the flavour and mildne of the cheese is said to depend. A piece of dried rennet, of the size of half-a-crown, put into a pint of water over night, and allowed to stand until the next morning, is sufficient for 18 or 20 gallons of milk. In large, round, thick cheeses (100 to 200 lbs. each). They are generally solid, homogeneous, and dry, and friable rather than viscid. Cheese, Cottenham. A rich kind of cheese, in flavour and consistence not unlike Stilton, from which, however, it differs in shape, being flatter and broader than the latter. Cheese, Cream. From the “strippings” (the last of the milk drawn from the cow at each milking), from a mixture of milk and cream, or from raw cream only, according to the quality desired. It is usually made in small oblong, square, or rounded cakes, a general pre ure only (that of a 2 or 4 lb. weight) being applied to pre out the whey. After twelve hours it is placed upon a board or wooden trencher, and turned every day until dry. It ripens in about three weeks. A little salt is generally added, and frequently a little powdered lump sugar. Cheese, Derby shire. A small, white, rich variety, very similar to Dunlop cheese. Cheese, Dunlop. Rich, white, and buttery; in round forms, weighing from 30 lbs. to 60 lbs. Cheese, Dutch. (Holland.) Of a globular form. 5 to 14 lbs. each. Those from Edam are very highly salted; those from Gouda le so. Cheese, Gloucester. Single Glo′ster; from milk deprived of part of its cream; Double Glo′ster, from milk retaining the whole of the cream. Mild tasted, semi-buttery consistence, without being friable; in large, round, flattish forms. Cheese, Green or Sage . From milk mixed with the juice or an infusion or decoction of sage leaves, to which mary gold flowers and parsley are frequently added. Cheese, Gruyère. A fine description of cheese made in Switzerland, and largely consumed on the Continent. It is firm and dry, and exhibits numerous cells of considerable magnitude. Its flavour is peculiar, and is not generally liked by English people. Cheese, Lincoln. From new milk and cream; in pieces about 2 inches thick; soft, and will not keep over 2 or 3 months. Cheese, Neufchâtel. A much-esteemed variety of Swi cheese; made of cream, and weighs about 5 or 6 oz. Cheese, Norfolk. Dyed yellow with annotta or saffron; good, but not superior; in cheeses of 30 lbs. to 50 lbs. Cheese, Parmesan. (Parma, .) From the curd of skimmed milk, hardened by a gentle heat. The rennet is added at about 120°, and an hour afterwards the curdling milk is set on a slow fire until heated to about 150° Fahr.; during which the curd separates in small lumps. A few pinches of saffron are then thrown in. About a fortnight after making the outer crust is cut off, and the new surface varnished with linseed oil, and one side coloured red. Cheese, Roque fort. From ewes’ milk; the best prepared in France. It greatly resembles Stilton, but is scarcely of equal richne or quality, and po e es a peculiar pungency and flavour. Cheese, Slipcoat or Soft . A very rich white cheese, somewhat resembling butter; for present use only. Cheese, Stilton. The richest and finest cheese made in England. From raw milk to which cream taken from other milk is added; in cheeses generally twice as high as they are broad. Like wine, this cheese is vastly improved by age, and is therefore seldom eaten before it is 2 years old. A spurious appearance of age is sometimes given to it by placing it in a warm, damp cellar, or by surrounding it with ma es of fermenting straw or dung. Cheese, Suffolk. From skimmed milk; in round, flat forms, from 24 lbs. to 30 lbs. each. Very hard and horny. Cheese, Swi . The principal cheeses made in Switzerland are the Gruyère, the Neufchâtel, and the Schabzieger or green cheese. The latter is flavoured with melilot. Cheese, Westphalian. In small balls or rolls of about 1 lb. each. It derives its peculiar flavour from the curd being allowed to become partially putrid before being pre ed. In small balls or rolls of about 1 lb. each. Cheese, Wilts hire. Resembles poor Cheshire or Glo′ster. The outside is generally painted with a mixture of reddle or red-ochre or whey. Cheese, York. From cream: it will not keep. Qual., . Cheese has been objected to as an article of diet, but without sufficient reason, since it is, when of good quality, eminently nutritious, wholesome, and digestible. Like all other food, cheese digests more readily when well masticated, and the neglect of this precaution is one reason why it frequently disagrees with delicate stomachs. It is rendered more agreeable to many palates by toasting it, but becomes le digestible by that operation. The basis of cheese is casein or coagulated curd, a protein substance; it therefore cannot fail to prove nutritious, provided it is properly digested. Cheese-curd, carefully freed from water and milk by expre ion, and the addition of salt, is a mixture of casein and butter. It contains all the phosphate of lime and part of the phosphate of soda of the milk. (Liebig.) When taken as a condiment, especially when rich and old, it powerfully promotes the secretion of the saliva and gastric juice, and thereby aids the stomach in performing its proper functions. Rotten cheese is very unwholesome. We give below the composition of some of the principal varieties of cheese:— | Cheddar. | Double Gloucester. | Skim. | | Water | 36·64 | 35·61 | 43·64 | | Casein | 23·38 | 21·76 | 45·64 | | Fatty matter | 35·44 | 38·16 | 5·76 | | Mineral matter | 4·54 | 4·47 | 4·96 | | ——— | ——— | ——— | | 100·00 | 100·00 | 100·00 | | Stilton. | Cot her stone. | | Water | 32·18 | 38·28 | | Butter | 37·36 | 30·89 | | Casein | 24·31 | 23·93 | | Milk, sugar, and extractive matters | 2·22 | 3·70 | | Mineral matter | 3·93 | 3·20 | | ——— | ——— | | 100·00 | 100·00 | | Gruyère. | Ordinary Dutch. | | Water | 40·00 | 36·10 | | Casein | 31·50 | 29·40 | | Fatty matter | 24·00 | 27·50 | | Salts | 3·00 | ·90 | | Non-nitrogenous organic matter and lo | 1·50 | 6·10 | | ——— | ——— | | 100·00 | 100·00 | Concluding Remarks. —It is surprising that cheese is not more frequently made an article of domestic manufacture, especially by housewives resident in the country. The operations of cheese-making are all exceedingly simple, and not laborious, and will, in most cases, amply repay the outlay for the milk. Besides, cheese is not unfrequently coloured with stains and pigments which are injurious, and even poisonous, the risk of taking which is not encountered when it is made at home. Several persons have nearly lost their lives from eating cheese coloured with annotta, for instance. This substance, though harmle in itself, is frequently adulterated with red lead, so that the cheesemonger may very innocently introduce a poison, when he only intends to improve the colour of his goods. When a whole cheese is cut, and the consumption small, it is generally found to become unpleasantly dry, and to lose flavour before it is consumed. This is best prevented by cutting a sufficient quantity for a few days’ consumption from the cheese, and keeping the remainder in a cool place, rather damp than dry, spreading a thin film of butter over the fresh surface, and covering it with a cloth or pan to keep off the dirt. This removes the objection existing in small families against purchasing a whole cheese at a time. The common practice of buying small quantities of cheese should be avoided, as not only a higher price is paid for any given quality, but there is little likelihood of obtaining exactly the same flavour twice running. Should cheese become too dry to be agreeable, it may be used for stewing, or for making grated cheese or Welsh rare-bits.