CAVIAR

the salted roe of various large fishes of the sturgeon genus (see STURGEON). Nearly all the world’s supply comes from the rivers of the Caspian'and Black seas and the Sea of Azoff.: The finest quality is that from the comparatively small seuruga and sterlet species. After the fish has been killed, the roe is separated from the skin and fine ti ues which envelop it by gently rubbing through a sieve. For ‘‘fresh’’ caviar, 1.e., mijJdly salted eaviar—for which only roe in the best condition is suitable—it is then salted in the proportion of two to six pounds to each hundred pounds of roe, drained, and put up in air-tight tin packages or gla jars. This mild salting is generally confined to large, high grade roe. Roe of inferior grades—of smaller size, le uniform, and le desirable in color —as also that of fine grades in which the eggs are too soft or too far ripened for “‘fresh’? packing, is cured with 10% of salt and packed in barrels for export, to be later repacked and cooked in tins for retail handling. This style is a staple food in Ru ia and much of eastern Hurope and is the sandwich and canape caviar of ordinary use here, The size of the eggs varies from very small to that of peas. The color is generally black but may be also any one of various shades of yellow, grey, dark green, and brown. The real test of caviar is its flavor, and this is as often found in the small as in the large grain and in the black as in any other color, but the large eggs and the grey and yellow, or ‘‘gold,’’ are the most rare and therefore the most expensive. The gold color is considered the choicest in Ru ia, the greyish in Germany. There is very little caviar produced in North America to-day, uncontrolled slaughter of the sturgeon and other producing fishes having rendered them so searee that it hardly pays to hunt them. Formerly, in addition to supplying home markets, a considerable quantity of American caviar was shipped to Europe for sale as medium and coarse grades. The present small domestic supply is obtained both from fish of the sturgeon genus, and from the paddle-fish (or ‘‘Spoonbill cat’’), whitefish, lake herring, and common (or ‘‘German’’) carp. Such caviar should be styled Whitefish caviar, ete. Caviar in America is generally eaten on bread or toast with oil, lemon juice or vinegar, and various garnishes. It is also occasionally served on ice as a special course at luncheon and dinner parties, Caviarelle is a paste of cod roe.